2 x Kermi spacers for radiators, each 25-40 mm, adjustable

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Connecting your radiator valve tails is an important step in ensuring the proper installation of your new radiator. The tails are the connectors between the radiator and the valves – they control the flow of water through your radiator. What if we could more evenly distribute the airflow over the entirety of the rad? Some cases (Corsair One) do this by separating the rad and fan, but tightly controlling the airflow so it can only flow through the rad. What if we could add a tightly sealed spacer between a fan and a rad, so the air would have nowhere to go but into the rad. The air would then have space to disperse and travel through the entirety of the rad, not just in a ring through the middle 60% of the rad. It’s important to measure both width and height when installing a new radiator so that you have an accurate idea of how much space you have available for installation purposes. Measure twice or even three times just to be safe – accuracy is key here! Step 5: Measure + mark your centre line Follow the above steps to drain your radiator (see our section on how to replace a radiator for step-by-step instructions) Replace the valve head and attach the pipework to the wall. Tighten all joints and nuts to ensure it doesn’t move out of place. If you’re connecting new pipework to your towel radiator:

Be sure of the specific heat output you require. Your new radiator will need to have the right output. For example, towel rails have a lower output than radiators so won’t keep your bathroom as warm as a radiator would. Thermostatic radiator valves are not essential but can give you complete control over the temperature in your home. You can set your radiators to your preferred temperature in every room of your property. These valves can also save you money in the long run by reducing your energy bills. Is the placement of my radiators important?

All of our valves are Bi-directional.

If you are unsure how to replace a radiator with a smaller one, consider hiring a tradesperson for a speedy, professional result. If your existing control doesn't unscrew easily, set it to its highest temperature setting (eg “5”) and try again. Be careful to only unscrew the control and not the valve body itself. Replacement radiator (preferably one of a similar size and with similar pipe connections for a simplified installation) Remember: If your radiator has manual (“+ / -”) valves rather than thermostatic valves (with a numbered dial) then your valve body will need to be replaced before proceeding.

Once you have enabled Heat On Demand, your Hive Radiator Valve will boost your thermostat automatically to turn on your heating and make heat available to your radiators when they need it.With varied shapes and sizes to choose from, towel radiators are often space-saving and can look much more attractive than a standard radiator, becoming a feature of your bathroom. Ideally, your new towel radiator will replace the identical space of your former radiator. This way, there’s no need for the hassle of draining your system, or taking up your flooring and skirting boards. Simply turn off your heating and isolate your old radiator before removing it from the wall. Your new towel radiator will connect to the existing pipework. You will need to expose the old pipes which may mean lifting up floorboards and removing skirting boards (if hiring a professional, they may take on this step). Don’t try to open your Hive Radiator Valve. There are no parts inside that you can service or replace.

Unfortunately, a wide range of homes are still operating with dated central heating systems. And, although less popular than boiler changes, radiator replacements can increase efficiency and save you money in the long run.Not to mention the whole 'dead spot' issue is overplayed too because fans tend to direct the majority of their airflow from along the outer ring of the fan and it generally flows from there in a slightly outwards direction rather than in a straight line from the fan, not unlike when someone blows a smoke ring - it all comes from the outer edge and expands outwards with the ring getting larger as it travels away. That's the natural airflow pattern of a fan. As such the center of a fan tends to be a dead zone anyway even with a shroud. There's only one fan that I'm aware of that was designed to try to counteract this natural tendency into a more even flow and that's Silverstone's Air Penetrator and that's due to the restrictive grill with a concentric pattern that redirects & evens out airflow but at a cost of performance. With most fans blowing almost all of their air from the outer ring of the fan the fact the motor hub is a dead zone is non-consequential and will not be remedied by a shroud.