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But please don’t freak out! Keep in mind that there are people out there who have known all these issues with SPF testing, and all of these consumer reports for years and years, and they still use sunscreen. But I am going to use the Sunscreen Optimizer to demonstrate a few things… The number of filters doesn’t tell you much With other in vitro methods that use plates, there’s been a really big difference between what you see on the plate and what you see in vivo on human skin.
Purito Sunscreen and All About SPF Testing | Lab Muffin Purito Sunscreen and All About SPF Testing | Lab Muffin
In late 2015, Choice magazine tested six SPF 50+ sunscreens that were available in Australia, and they found that only two of the sunscreens in the consumer tests actually met the label claim. I have struggled in wearing SPF daily because most break me out. My possibly too pragmatic outlook is: even if the Purito or Klairs sunscreen are *lower* than advertised (both of which I have, ironically), it is probably better for me to wear SPF 19 daily than SPF not at all. Reply
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As for what I’ll be doing with my sunscreens? I still use my Purito Unscented Sun because, well, it’s better than nothing. I recently finished my gifted tube of Keep Cool sun essence. My Klairs Mid-Day Blue Sunscreen is on standby. I don’t use it much these days because it’s better suited for when my skin is oily, which is not the case during another cold, dry winter. The reality is that consumer groups frequently test all types of sunscreens, and in many cases, they have a lower SPF than their label indicates. For example, in 2016, 23 out of 60 tested sunscreens from the U.S. had less than half the SPF that was labeled. I’ve been told that some of La Roche-Posay sunscreens have well in excess of their labelled SPF protection. The highest allowed in Australia is SPF 50+, but they go well beyond this.
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But once I read blogs and accounts like Fiddy’s, I caught myself from being completely swept away in the emotional current. The fact that I got as far as I did, however, made me feel crappy. Btw, Paula’s Choice is rumoured to ‘boost’ their SPF by adding tons of antioxidants to their formulas for a long time.
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So these are all examples of inactive ingredients that can drastically change the SPF of a sunscreen. Comparing sunscreens from different markets I’ve always been an emotional person but with age, I’ve worked on becoming more measured in my reactions. I like to think I’ve mellowed out since my younger days, but with more time on my hands due to the pandemic, I was looking for ways to spend my time — and not always wisely.
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These results are even more incredible because the study was done in the 90s, using a 90s sunscreen that was SPF 16 with 8% octinoxate and 2% avobenzone. And this was done in Queensland in Australia, where there’s a LOT of UV. So even if your sunscreen application isn’t optimal, you are still getting a lot of protection. Small changes in the production of the sunscreen can also affect the SPF value. There’s usually some testing for consistent composition – for example, to make sure there’s actually 5% avobenzone every time – but again, there are lots of other things in the formula that can change that SPF. PPD is based on different people who are exposed to UVA light. The test subjects are analyzed based on how long it takes them to tan. Then, the results are compared between protected and unprotected skin.Water, Butyloctyl Salicylate (Skin-Conditioning Agents), Dibutyl Adipate (Plasticizer), Propanediol (Skin-Conditioning Agents), Butylene Glycol (Skin-Conditioning Agents), The main test used is the ISO 24444 SPF test – this was where you get human volunteers and burn them for science, and as mentioned before there are lots of issues with this like cost and harm. But if you add more of the filters you already had, you might exceed the regulatory limits, or they might solidify out (you get crystals in the sunscreen formula and it doesn’t work anymore). Adding different filters can get around this. I’m really wondering about the waves this ‘scandal’ made, because, sunscreen ‘scandals’ happen. A lot. Every year. And nobody talks about that. I don’t say that to modify the seriousness of the whole thing, but to bring it into perspective. Sunscreen testing is rather susceptible to error. The low-viscosity fluid makes it comfortable and smooth to apply and your skin will look radiant and fresh when you have it on.
Purito’s sunscreen scandal revisited: What you can learn from it Purito’s sunscreen scandal revisited: What you can learn from it
The properties of the sunscreen film make a big difference, and generally heavier sunscreens don’t move around as much. In vitro SPF testingSunscreens are annoyingly complicated. The saying that the ingredients list can’t tell you the whole story about how a product works is especially applicable to sunscreens. In vivo UVA testing is not considered by sunscreen scientists to be superior to in vitro UVA testing – in vitro UVA tests are standardised by comparison to in vivo SPF results for the same sunscreen, and there isn’t a universally recognised biological endpoint for UVA like erythema for UVB.
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