400ml Military Style SPRAY PAINT (Army Spray Paint - US Olive Drab)

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Finally, another WWII shade of OD has been faithfully replicated. Whether a vehicle restorer/owner, a weapons collector, a reenactor, or all three, in the end you now have an accurate solution. TM9 Lustreless Olive Drab Shade #8

RAL7013 is a very very greyish drab and the former base colour of th Austrian Army, going to brownish in sunlight. 0.7 dE is an extremely small difference... One should simply use RAL7013 if this were true for OD319 and ANA613! Spray application. All of our Enamels will need to be diluted by around 5-10% using Paintman Coach Enamel Thinners, thus ensuring the highest quality finish and maintaining correct drying times.

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All our paints are perfect for model painting, cladding repairs, metals, aluminium, plastics, PVC windows and doors. Optional Additives Due to the different resins used, you may experience slight shade variations between Ultraspeed and Coach Enamel. The most affordable supplier of custom filled BS 381C Olive Drab 298 paint canisters in the UK from the RAL Classic Colour Chart.

This is highest quality 400ml Aerosol Spray Paint in RAL 7016 Anthracite Grey available to be delivered in 24 to 48 hours for express delivery and between 3 to 5 days on standard delivery. In November of 2006 we received an original can of 1944 Lustreless Blue Drab paint from Kevin Kronlund of Army Cars USA. This paint had never been opened. It is not essential but it's allot easier. Our paint can be painted or rolled on. Remember we can do it for you on request - so call us. If you are nervous, and not confident you'll do a good overall job, it is better for someone else to do it. After a few years of research I was able to obtain original paint chips of Forest Green from 1943, 1949 and 1953. Original WWII USMC paint has been impossible to find since most of it was sold to the US Postal Service in the late 1940’s. Using these paint chips as well as referencing NOS International Harvester parts, it was clear as to what the shade of Forest Green was during the WWII and immediate post war era. This paint shade is a strikingly different green. At first it is hard to reconcile that this is the shade used, but then again the Marines were fighting a jungle war for the most part and their vehicles needed to blend in with tropical foliage. I thought the best way to highlight this was to paint a .50 BMG ammo box and place it on my M-20 and almost completed Ben Hur. Both of these are painted in TM9 OD Shade #8 (OD319). You can see the striking difference. I have also attached two pictures of an IH M5-6 being restored using the TM9 USMC urethane paint. Compared to Q panels that were recently painted with a currently available Blue Drab paint it was obvious that there was some distance between colors, not just hues. Without any doubt, this shade was the hardest to replicate to date. We rejected six samples from the manufacturer. The finish was too glossy, too blue, too gray, etc. This shade is actually much greener and grayer than what is currently available.If the surface is well covered and it is not your first painting project, you will be able to do it with a spray, although you will not apply many coats. However if you are not an expert we recommend using 2 sprays for an optimal finish. What temperature should the guitar be at during and after the process? BTW I wonder which AFVs will be your "first five" after these 45 years. My list consists of: Renault FT, Renault UE, Mark IV, PzKpfwIV and PzKpfw V. We know we are not the cheapest on the market, however the superb quality of our products is second to none. And now - due to the COVID emergency - I just have started building the Braille scale AFV again. And I'm also the "brush man" (no rattlecans & aerograph), the only acrylics I use (for aircaft and warship modelling so far) are Vallejo varnishes and mixing paints doesn't frighten me. But as I totally don't accept the consistence of Revell and Tamiya enamels I rely on Humbrols only. Frankly speaking I still do have several (less than ten as for today) AIRFIX enamels from the 1980s that are still usable (!!!) and they do mix with Humbrols much better than Revells do. This is not the paint used in the factories to paint vehicles as they came down the assembly line, but rather the paint (in paste form) issued to ordnance and motor pool units to be utilized for the repainting of vehicles in the field. The second image is from an original FM5 manual dated July of 1944.

So what's the current wisdom? The most tempting ideas I've seen so far are (enamel) a 50:50 mix of FS34087 and FS30118 (both of which I think I have in Xtracolor) and (acrylic) Vallejo Luftwaffe Brown Violet (which I certainly don't have). Synthetic spray paints: If you are painting onto something which has been previously painted in a Synthetic product please choose the Synthetic paint option for maximum compatibility. This particular paint is the highest quality the chemistry of synthetic enamel paint products allow. You will not be disappointed! It is recommended to do it in a place whose temperature is between 15 and 25 degrees. If the painting or varnishing process is done in very hot or cold conditions, the final result may not be good. We apply several coats, letting dry between them about 24 hours and sanding between them, to remove any remaining impurities.We also supply Chassis Paint, Etch Primer, Tyre Paint, Clansman Radio Paint, Engine Paint, Primers, WW1 and WW2 Helmet Paint, Water Leak & Roof Repair Paint etc. I have almost 200 WWII metal ammo cans. The overwhelming majority of these cans have been repainted at least once during their service. This is evidenced by the contrast between the darker post war lustreless olive drab found on the outside, and the lighter semi-gloss olive drab shade found on the majority of the insides. The gasket was present and served its purpose way beyond the intended requirements of the 1940’s. You can see the remnants of the gasket as well as the pigment I pulled from the bottom of the can.