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The beauty of this sauce lies in the simplicity of its ingredients and how they complement and elevate each other. Vodka, for example, plays a fundamental role by allowing the tomato to release its natural flavours in the alcohol. It also acts as an emulsifier, which prevents the creamy sauce from splitting due to the tomatoes’ acidity. Cook the pasta in the water, which is by now at a rolling boil, until al dente. Reserve a little cooking water when you drain it.
Vocally dextrous but also a fine physical clown, she created Miss Popsy Wopsy, a woozy, klutzy ingenue – a music hall entertainer who was never quite on note and always just behind the beat. She performed the character in her shows and several times on TV in The Good Old Days in the 1970s and 80s. In person she could deliver drawled witticisms and deadpan putdowns, making her a jolly addition to panel shows such as Juke Box Jury, Call My Bluff and Blankety Blank. So, fill your favourite glass, choose something mouth-watering to cook and embrace all that Friday night has to offer. At London institution St John Bread and Wine, induction hobs and old-fashioned gas burners are equally essential. “We use gas traditionally, but we also have two or three induction hobs dotted around the kitchen for rapid boiling, eggs, making custard, things that need a more controlled heat,” says head chef Farokh Talati.Meanwhile, get the sauce started. Pour the passata into a large casserole pan with a lid. Add a big pinch of salt, the bashed garlic cloves, sherry vinegar and a splash of olive oil. Set over a low-medium heat with the lid on and bring to a simmer. Simmer with the lid on for 15 minutes, then with the lid off for a further 10 minutes. You can turn it off while you fry the meatballs or just have it cooking on a very low heat with the lid on. Unlike a gas hob, which not only requires matches but a Mrs Hinchesque cleaning session every time you use it, you just wipe down the glassy surface after use. And because it only switches on when it recognises a pan in place, there’s no risk of burning yourself. When the sandwiches are ready, use a pastry brush (or a teaspoon will do) to spread a little hot butter on the bread. Finish with a sprinkle of flaky salt.
New York and San Francisco have already banned gas in new builds, and there has long been an environmental argument for switching to energy-efficient, low-emission induction. There have been many moments when these “adults” have seemed rather more like their younger selves, squabbling about nothing and storming off. But there have been a lot of laughs, too, usually at my expense. I knew they were unlikely to let me live down the evening I stumbled home after drinking a Negroni (along with a couple of socially distanced glasses of wine) in a friend’s garden, and had committed the cardinal sin of not drinking any water. Still, it gave everyone a laugh. Born in Johannesburg, South Africa, Sheila was the younger of two children of Harold, a garage owner from Lancashire, and his wife, Eda (nee Cohen). There was little professional theatre, but Harold directed and performed in amateur productions, particularly of Gilbert and Sullivan, and the young Sheila would watch from the wings. Her mother was a talented pianist and so her childhood was surrounded by drama and music. She also sang at the local synagogue, where both Harold and Eda were involved in directing the choir.Use your hands to mix everything together. Mix well so everything is evenly incorporated. Then form the mixture into balls a little bigger than golf balls. Put the balls on a baking sheet lined with greaseproof paper, cover and put in the fridge for half an hour to firm up. Add the garlic and celery seeds (or celery salt) to the onion and celery and cook, without the lid, for 1 minute. It’s also a space saver – induction hobs don’t need to be fitted; they can be plugged in anywhere. “I can lift it up, put it anywhere I want to and I’m cooking straight away, which is handy for saving space and the economy of movement in the kitchen,” adds Talati. Just don’t buy one if you have a pacemaker – the hob’s electromagnetic field can interfere with the settings. At Witwatersrand University she studied fine art, but abandoned the course to travel to Britain to audition for the Royal Academy of Dramatic Art (Rada) in London in 1953. She did a term at its preparatory academy, but was told she was unusual and would probably have to wait until she was in her 30s and become a character actor. Undeterred, she enrolled instead at the Webber Douglas Academy, where she won the Margaret Rutherford award for comedy. A joyous read that completely captures the special-ness of Friday nights... Bursting with generosity and great recipes
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