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Panasonic H-HS12035E Lumix G X VARIO 12-35 mm Lens - Black

£9.9£99Clearance
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The blue column represents readings from the centre of the picture frame at the various apertures and the green is from the edges. Averaging them out gives the red weighted column. While I noticed no change in the optical stabilization with my version 2, the lens performed excellently. All my sample clips and photos in the video review (below) were shot using the Panasonic Lumix GH6. How to Turn Power O.I.S. On Thanks to the Power O.I.S. lens stabilization feature, you can get excellent and stable results for vlogging. The Panasonic Leica 12-35mm lens activates Dual IS 2 within the GH6, and it’s some of the best stabilization I have ever seen. Both lenses are metal and weather-sealed. It is worth bearing in mind that the weather-sealing makes more sense when combined with a weather-proof body such as the Olympus OM-D E-M1 or Panasonic Lumix GH4. Olympus claims that the 12-40mm is dust, splash and freeze proof, while the Lumix is only dust and splash proof.

It appears that some people are reading the last two lines incorrectly. "Diffraction limited" does not mean "diffraction has taken away so much sharpness as to be unusable. Diffraction limited means that optical quality does not improve at apertures above the diffraction limited aperture—here f/2.8—and that diffraction is the controlling variable in how well detail, particularly edge detail, is recorded. Note I wrote "clearly lower results above f/4," which indicates that I see some visible reduction of sharpness at f/5.6 and above. Typically on m4/3 lenses, I don't see that until f/8. How much reduction? Small but increasing amounts for each aperture you stop down above f/4. Put another way: the 12-35mm is sharpest at f/2.8, almost across the board—there's a small improvement at f/4 at the wider angles, but very small—and any stopping down tends reduce the lens' ability to distinguish detail. On 12mp cameras, this will be less visible than on 16mp cameras. If we get 24mp m4/3 cameras, this will be more visible.) Those worried about there being a dramatic difference in sharpness between the two zooms can rest easy – both perform very well throughout the zoom and aperture ranges. Neither is quite as sharp as a prime lens but the results are more than enough for most purposes. GX8, 1/1250, f/5.6, ISO 200 – M.Zuiko 12-40mm at 12mm GX8, 1/125, f/9, ISO 200 – Lumix 12-35mm at 31mm GX8, 1/1000, f/5.6, ISO 200 – M.Zuiko 12-40mm at 24mm GX8, 1/4000, f/2.8, ISO 200 – Lumix 12-35mm at 35mmBokeh Balls are pleasing to the eye, considering this is a zoom lens. Panasonic and Leica did a great job rendering the specular highlights. There is some onion-ringing in some bokeh balls and some cat’s-eye bokeh towards the edges. Overall, I am very pleased with the results, and it will be a good upgrade over other zooms in the range. Panasonic Leica 12-35mm f2.8 Bokeh Balls at f2.8 The lens comes with a premium lens pouch and a petal-shaped lens hood in the box. You can fit 58mm filters to this lens at the same time as using the hood. Image Quality – Through the lens GX8, 1/200, f/8, ISO 200 – 16mm GX8, 1/125, f/3.5, ISO 200 – 23mm Sharpness What it boils down to is reach (the longer PanaLeica 12-60 wins here) vs portability and a faster constant 2.8 aperture (the Lumix 12-35 wins easily here). The other factor, which for me was and is the most important one, really - was the added bonus that the smaller 12-35 also has Panasonic's excellent Power OIS stabilization built-into the lens itself - so when one is shooting with the 12-35 plus one of the more 'modern' (or recent) excellent Lumix bodies (like my GX8) - the combination of the camera's internal IS plus the lens's Power OIS - basically means you gain an extra one to two stops for hand-held low-light shooting. Which, for my preferred styles of shooting, is HUGE---- Recommended (2012 to 2019) if you need the aperture speed and don't mind the optical corrections needed

Note: this review is of the first version of this lens. There is a slightly updated II version of this lens available now. The Panasonic Leica 12-60mm is another cream of the crop standard zoom lens that they pair with their Lumix G cameras. Image Quality – Through the lens E-M1, 1/100, f/10, ISO 200 – M.Zuiko 12-40mm at 28mm GX8, 1/160, f/11, ISO 200 – Lumix 12-35mm at 33mm Focal Range I was pleasantly surprised by the bokeh of the Lumix 12-35mm. By zooming in to 35mm and standing at the minimum focus distance of 25cm, you can achieve a smooth and creamy out-of-focus rendering with round specular highlights at the centre. GX8, 1/320, f/2.8, ISO 200 – 35mm GX8, 1/1000, f/2.8, ISO 200 – 23mm Chromatic AberrationLooking at both my series of test shots and the images I took out in the field, I would say that centre sharpness peaks at around f/4 at 12mm, though f/5.6 and f/8 perform is a very similar manner. As for the corners and edges, I would declare a tie between f/4 and f/5.6. Although the fastest aperture of f/2.8 is very useable in both the corners and at the centre, it is a little softer than f/4 at 12mm. As could be expected, anything taken at f/16 and beyond is too soft due to diffraction. GX8, 1/200, f/2.8, ISO 200 – 12mm GX8, 1/800, f/4, ISO 200 – 12mm GX8, 1/200, f/5.6, ISO 200 – 12mm GX8, 1/200, f/8, ISO 200 – 12mm

A probationer in the camera and photography world is most of the time confused about what lens they should get. Kit lenses are paired with cameras or bundled with them to be cost-effective for a new buyer. These mostly include the standard zoom lens nowadays. I did notice that the two zooms produced slightly different compositions when set to the same focal length, especially when focused close or zoomed out to the longer focal lengths. However, this is of little significance in the real world because a) you are unlikely to own both zooms and continually want to compare them, and b) photographers usually frame their images according to the elements they want to include in the frame. SharpnessMy observation was that on my Oly m5.2 and then M1.2, the PL-12-60 was more likely to miss focus than my P12-35. This was an occasional annoyance but real for me. However, on cost wise (a nearly 2.5x cheaper lens in today's market price), class wise (I know it has not much practical meaning) and speed wise (constant f/2.8 vs f/3.5-5.6) I couldn't make up my mind to let the 12-35 go. On IQ wise if most opinion on 12-60 that it should have similar IQ to 12-32 is true, 12-35 f/2.8 might be marginally better. The lens delivers sharp, contrasty images with low CA and distortion, which should be expected of a pro-spec zoom.

Sell the kit you’re not using to MPB. Trade in for the kit you need to create. Buy used, spend less and get more. Buy. Sell. Trade. Create.

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The lens hood that comes with the Panasonic 12-35mm is shabby but the one on the Panasonic 12-60mm is far better. when I bought my Leica 12-60 I had my em10 with the 14-42R/40-150R combo and a GX80 with the 12-32/35-100 5.6 combo. I liked both the longer lenses, but disliked both the shorter lenses. I shoot mainly outdoors and prefer 12 mm to 14 mm. I was continually swapping between the shorter and longer lenses, so for me the 12-60 decision was easy. I replaced 3 of the lenses with the Leica and kept the 40-150. No issues with flare were encountered during testing. The Nano Surface Coatings applied to this lens help to keep contrast high, even when shooting into the light. A petal shaped hood comes supplied with the lens, which does a decent job of protecting the front element from extraneous light that may cause issues.

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