Nikon SB-910 Speedlight Unit

Product Information

All right, let us now take a closer look at the Nikon SB-910, the once crowned king of flash… At least within the Nikon range itself. Even though the distance scale shows we’re losing some power when we shoot at maximum flash sync speed with the Nikon SB-900 and SB-910, in my view this doesn’t have as much impact as one would expect, and I’ll continue choosing maximum flash sync speed as a good starting point when using flash in bright ambient light.

The SB-910 also has a huge zoom head range: 17mm to 200mm on FX, as well as a 14mm diffuser. This means that you'll never have to worry about using the diffuser, even with the 16-35mm zoom on FX. (These aren't exact, I'd shoot my 14mm lens without worrying about the diffuser indoors, too.) I use my discontinued SB-600 in the very, very few occasions I need more power, or if I'm shooting a 35mm camera or any vintage. As of 2016, the SB-700 is its replacement, and the best flash if you need a big, powerful flashWhen I need more than one flash for serious lighting, I don't bother with these battery-powered things and use real studio strobes, which cost less and work so much better.

The sequence for the Nikon D700 follows the same pattern. I did use 200 ISO instead of 100 ISO, and therefore bumped my aperture down to f/8 you say that with the Godox speedlights there is no preflash, what about with the godox TTL monolights? - I cant remember the model names- the new ones that everyone is raving about at the moment? Nothing interesting on both sides too, just the battery compartment – Takes 4 AA batteries. But know that the head rotates around 180° and is able to tilt from -7° to 90°. When you use flash photography, you can make a big step change in your photography. When using flash, you add a fourth element, flash power, to the exposure triangle, which must be balanced with the other three elements to produce the best results. When using flash on the camera, it’s common for the camera to get confused with the exposure and result in an unflattering image. The first step is to set your ISO to 200. ISO 200 is an excellent starting point because it provides you with an extra layer of light. You will always need an aperture with a wider depth of field to begin, and the second step is to select F8 for beginners. As a result, using an aperture of f8 will help you avoid overexposure by keeping your shutter at a minimum of 1/200. With all other cameras, there will be no proper (TTL) auto exposure control. For compatibility with all cameras, use the SB-600, or you'll have to use the SB-910 in one of its less fashionable work-around modes.

That’s all for this review, and here is a small section on some extras and links that may be useful to you. There’s a linear correlation between aperture and flash range. You can see this with your speedlight on your camera, if your speedlight shows the distance scale. Place your flash on your camera, and choose 100 ISO, (or 200 ISO). Set a shutter speed of 1/125 and an aperture of f16 … then, as you change your aperture slowly up to f/2.8 you will see the distance scale move. This distance is the range your flash will give correct exposure for your chosen aperture and ISO. This works whether you set our speedlight to Manual or TTL. To match the light source, it is critical to adjust the white balance of the camera. To ensure the best color temperature, the photograph should be set to the proper temperature. The Auto FP High- Speed Sync feature enables you to use the camera’s maximum shutter speed without worrying about streaks or noise. Does An Sb 600 Have A High Speed Sync? HSS can be used to take photos with Nikon D750 and SB-700 cameras. Most cameras have a normal flash sync speed of 1/200 of a second, which allows you to use your flash at a shutter speed above that. The system is extremely effective. A brief explanation of doing HSS with manual flashes. Most cameras are capable of running flash syncs at speeds ranging from 1/200 seconds to 1/350 seconds. When you want to use a shutter speed faster than the speed of your camera’s native flash, you can use high-speed sync. My shutter speed should be at least 1/800th of a second if I am wide open at aperture f/2.8.

There is an excellent basic guide of how to take various kinds of pictures, as well as the larger manual that's mostly legal notices.I use the discontinued SB-400 for fill-flash all the time in all of my DSLRs. I don't need or want to carry anything bigger. In all practicality, the SB-910 runs a long time and recycles immediately as it's actually used in its automatic modes. Almost no one buys SB-910s to run at full-power in manual mode all the time, but I still feel scammed. The flash also comes with a built-in bounce card and wide-angle diffuser… All of these made in Japan, if it matters to you.

VG-An item that falls below our regular level of gradings. Items in VG- condition will have excessive signs of use.

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Distance-priority manual flash: you tell the SB-910 the distance (it reads ISO and aperture from your camera), and it calculates and sets the manual power level to use before you shoot. Intuitive operation: boasts a large LCD screen, clear menu systems, conveniently placed controls and illuminated buttons that offer more comfortable operation in low light. that is how we can control the manual power from the controller unit- the whole system pretends its a TTL instruction. There are a variety of ways that you can change the flash settings on your Nikon equipment, depending on the model that you have. You can access the flash settings by going into the menu and selecting the “flash” option. From there, you can change the flash mode, flash intensity, and other settings. Experiment with the different settings to see what works best for your needs.