A Table for Friends: The Art of Cooking for Two or Twenty

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As WISH wanders with McAlpine on a hot July day around the shady cobbled streets of Venice, the author is heading early to the canal-side fruit, vegetable and fish market in Rialto. “Food is such a source of joy in Italy, where everyone talks about what’s coming into season, what they had for lunch, what they’re cooking for dinner. It creates such a wonderful quality of life,” she muses as she shops for fresh peaches, which she will later poach in Amaretto, and pretty, sunshine-yellow zucchini flowers for dressing the top of a deceptively simple taleggio puff pastry galette.

Combine the white chocolate, butter and sugar in a small saucepan and set over a low heat to melt. Stir regularly to stop the chocolate from catching and take the pan off the heat as soon as it is melted. Brush the pastry edge with the egg, then line with baking parchment and baking beans. Blind-bake in the oven for 10 minutes, until dry to the touch and lightly golden at the edges. Take out of the oven and leave to cool for 10 minutes or so. Tidying and washing up – well, if you bought this book, chances are you don’t employ someone to do the job, so it comes in handy. It is impossible to grow up in Italy and not love food,” enthuses bestselling cookbook author Skye McAlpine. British born but Venice raised from the age of six to 18, McAlpine recalls a childhood of long, convivial lunches and dinners thanks to her very social parents, the late property developer (renowned for his transformation of Broome in the eighties), art collector and former Thatcher Conservative Party treasurer Lord Robert McAlpine (best known as Alistair), and former magazine contributing editor Romilly McAlpine. “It was never just the three of us,” their daughter says. “For lunch or dinner there would always be friends, or friends of friends, joining us. It became a way of building family and creating a sense of home.” Each section is divided into stars, sides and sweets. And, the cherry on the cake, there are menu ideas at the bottom of each recipe too! She’s a sweetheart, and so organised. Dishes I look forward to enjoyingMcAlpine’s father favoured “relaxed but over-the-top tables, where he’d lay bowls of cherries, big bunches of herbs or pots from the garden as decoration”, she recalls of the days of living in both Hampshire and then Venice, before her parents divorced in 2001. Much like Lord McAlpine, she doesn’t think twice about filling the table with overflowing bowls of fruit, abundant bunches of flowers, candelabra, vintage china and antique glasses. Her recent collection with the global lifestyle brand Anthropologie reflects this mismatched style, with bowls, plates and cake stands softly splattered in the style of Pugliese ceramics, and long oval platters, jugs and mugs illustrated with delicate jasmine, lilac and forget-me-nots. “If you have the right dishes, all you need are some ripe tomatoes and a creamy burrata, or lentils dressed with olive oil and herbs, and within five minutes you have lunch – but it looks inviting too,” she says. Would suit someone who often hosts people and prefers no fuss cooking that still looks and tastes amazing.

Drawing on years of cooking for more people than it ever seemed possible to squeeze into her kitchen, Sunday Times columnist and cookery author Skye McAlpine shares the secrets to her stylish and relaxed way of hosting, setting you up for success whether you're cooking for two or twenty.I don’t often trust myself to cook pasta for more than four people, because the timings are too delicate. As they say in Naples: ‘people wait for pasta, not the other way round.’ Overcooked pasta is a cook’s worst nightmare, while pasta eaten cold when it should be hot is not much better. But this recipe – like eating a bowl of sunshine – is so simple that even I can happily chat and bring it together at the same time. I prepare the sauce in advance and leave it covered on the hob, then, while the pasta is bubbling, slice the lemon, shuffle everyone to the table and assemble the dish once they are sitting down, so they eat it hot. Set out in four chapters – stars, sides, sweets and extras (McAlpine “doesn’t do starters”) – the recipes are bookended by guides to cooking by number of guests (highlighting dishes to make at the last minute for small parties, and those to prepare in advance for large gatherings) and by timings (make-ahead menus and tips for how to store them). Skye’s recipes fall into four chapters, Stars, Sides, Sweets and Extras, which allow you to intuitively plan a simple and impressive menu, and, because juggling oven space is one of the biggest challenges when cooking for a crowd, each chapter is ingeniously organised into Throw Together, On The Hob and In The Oven so your menu works best for your mood, your kitchen and your time. I’ve had it a week or so and I’ve so far made the honey and lavender panna cotta –sublime, very creamy with that perfect wobbly texture–, the ambrosial apricots with pistachios –zesty mouthfuls of joy–, and the lemon and samphire potatoes, which I served with hake –deliciously lemony and naughtily salty. Ongoing Covid restrictions, reduced air and freight capacity, high volumes and winter weather conditions are all impacting transportation and local delivery across the globe.