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Much more important are settings for the speeds of the first layers and the use of auxiliary constructions for the print bed adhesion. For a more detailed look at the features of the Ender 3 Max Neo and what has changed from the Ender 3 Max, take a look at the Ender 3 Max Neo vs Ender 3 Max Comparison. For standard objects, 20% has proven to be a good guideline. But if you need stronger mechanical properties, you should set it somewhere between 20 and 60%. In extreme cases you can also print completely solid with 100% infill. Many users have been having issues due to odd folder setups on their computers. If you do not follow the below advice the firmware may have issues compiling. I noticed no significant issues in our test prints. A couple of small objects showed some spurious, thin filament "hairs" extending between portions of the prints; this is a common issue with FFF printers, and fortunately these strands are easy enough to clip and sand away.
We were happy to see that the Ender 3 Max neo maintained the carborundum bed, despite the Ender 3 V2 Neo moving to magnetic PC steel. With a carborundum bed, you wont need to use any additional adhesives like hairspray, but it is critical that you clean the bed with a damp cloth after every 5-10 prints to maintain the adhesion of the bed surface. Carborundum is even better than standard glass when it comes to part removal. Typically, parts can be removed with only a light tap once the bed is cooled. In many respects, the Creality K1 is in a completely different class than most of Creality's other 3D printers. The mechanical design of the motion system and extruder make it capable of higher performance than their other machines, and the software features make the K1 feel more like a modern electronic product than most 3D printers on the market today. Of course, it has a price to match the feature set--the K1 is notably more expensive than many of Creality's other printers, so if you don't mind a more hands-on printing process and slower print speeds, something like a Creality Ender 3 S1 will give you a similar build volume for a much lower price. Creality offers a number of different 3D printers, and it can take some time to find the one that is best for you. In general, build volume is a great first step in narrowing down your search. We have organized the 3D printers into categories to help you determine which one will fit your needs best. In each category, we’ll discuss the various choices and help you make the best decision. Since 2004, I have worked on PCMag’s hardware team, covering at various times printers, scanners, projectors, storage, and monitors. I currently focus my testing efforts on 3D printers, pro and productivity displays, and drives and SSDs of all sorts.Suppose our cube is supposed to be 20 mm on each side but we measure 20.30 mm in the X-direction. If our M92 value for X was set to 100.00, then we would update this value by sending our printer the command M92 X98.52 because 20*100 / 20.30 = 98.52.Tips
Community favorites and consistent entries in many a top budget 3D printer list, these are two of the most popular printers around. The Ender 5 Pro extra 50 mm on the Z-axis gives you a bit more room to print taller objects. Max Nozzle and Bed Temperature For users at all skill levels, the direct drive Sprite extruder sets the Ender 3 V3 SE (and its sibling, the Ender 3 V3 KE) apart from other entry-level Creality 3D printers. Direct drive extruders are faster and more reliable than their Bowden counterparts, and also make it easier to print with flexible filament such as TPU. This has often been a feature found on more expensive machines, and it’s great to see at the more affordable end of Creality’s lineup. If the build succeeds it is ready for you to upload to your printer. You will know if it was successfully built because it will show a SUCCESS in green at the bottom of the window in Visual Studio Code. Example of what a successful compile looks like. Your environment name may be different from what is shown above.I got a BL Touch sensor (also from Creality) but haven't installed it yet. I'm still happy with the manual levelling. Except the first days, when I did not level it correctly, once I did level it as it should, I only had to re-level it only one time. Search thingiverse for a test 3d model for the bed leveling and print that. You will now instantly where you need to do adjustments. The Ender-5 Pro is different than other 3D printers I've encountered in that the extruder assembly remains at the top of the printer. When printing begins, the build plate is immediately below it, and as the object is printed layer by layer, the build plate slowly descends. I'm not sure if it was because of this peculiar configuration, but I had trouble getting the extruder and plate the proper distance from each other. One or two corners would align well, but I couldn't get the other two aligned properly. Before I could get the extruder and build plate close enough to one another, the knob would reach a point where turning it further didn't bring the components any closer together.
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