The Christmas Chronicles: Notes, stories & 100 essential recipes for midwinter

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Now cut a long, wide strip that will fit not only around the inside of the tin, but a good 9cm above it. Every imaginable fish-in-a-crust – from a deep dish of creamy fish sauce with a crumble top to whole fillets of salmon wrapped in puff pastry – has been on the table the night before Christmas.

Yes, there is softness in the cold months, too, the voluminous jumpers and woolly hats, the steam rising from soup served in a deep bowl, the light from a single candle and the much-loved scarf that would feel like a burden at any other time of year.

The clever trick and indeed the point behind pot roasting is the small amount of liquid added to the casserole. You can most certainly drink the mahogany-coloured liquor here, but I really make these marinated fruits as a little extra, something to serve alongside chocolate mousse or milky panna cotta. We have published a new cookies policy, which you should read to find out more about the cookies we use. Cut the leeks into discs 1cm in width, wash thoroughly, then put them in a deep heavy-based pan with the butter over a moderate heat.

Expensive without being prohibitive, neat, lean and sweet-fleshed, they have a sense of jollity to them that I suspect comes from the carol. The remaining fruit – bundles of joy, soft as a pillow, juicy as a xiaolongbao dumpling – should not be wasted.

In our first episode, we’ll explore the wonderful crackle of winter – a fire in the hearth and boots crunching on frozen grass; as well as the softness – voluminous jumpers and the delicate steam from a deep bowl of soup. A tiny glass of apricot brandy, glowing like a candle, the fruit steeping quietly for a month with orange zest and star anise. In a small saucepan, bring the apple juice, marmalade, Marsala and honey to the boil, then remove from the heat and pour over the pears. Brush the top layer of pastry all over with the beaten egg, scatter with the nigella or sesame seeds then pierce a small hole in the centre with knife or the handle of wooden spoon. Add to the almonds and sugar, then introduce enough lemon juice, little by little, to bring the mixture to a stiff, smooth paste firm enough to roll.