Honeywell ST699

Product Information

So i will also need to move the programmer when i upgrade it, but im not sure what cable to use to extend the length. However, the ST699 has two simple switches inside, one for heating and one for hot water, and so does the Hive. From an electrical point of view they are the same, so you are simply exchanging one switch for another identical one. For exchange purposes, what's on the other end of the wiring is irrelevant really, provided that the ST699 was installed and working correctly in the first place. The Honeywell ST699B-1022 Electronic programmer is part of the Honeywell controls range at PlumbArena. Hi all I have a Y plan system with a mid position valve and original honeywell st699 controller. I replaced the wiring as shown. It seems that the hot water does not fire up the boiler on its own. It will work when heating is selected. I did not switch the system to gravity fed. If I change to this will it start working correctly. Hopefully someone can answer this for me. I have the same problem with mine and I just moved in to new house has this device. I tried everything but it still works for both of them at the same time.

Not seen a Y Plan using gravity, in the main the DHW is the default mode, and the tank thermostat turns on the boiler for DHW and the tank thermostat when satisfied powers the grey wire which will cause the motorised valve to open all the way so only have central heating, the white wire powers the valve half way if no grey but all the way if grey also live.Find a Plumber Plumbers Looking for Work - Post Here Looking for a Plumber? Post Jobs Here Looking for a Heating Engineer? Post Jobs Here Find a Renewable Energy Specialist Plumbers Directory Listings of the current 3 wires in the wall with the (neutral maybe?) with its box off but as shown in the photo previously all were just wired into seperate boxes. Any idea which to connect to get the circuit closed again? My question is, as we have had to move some appliances around the kitchen, the st699 is now awkwardly behind the fridge freezer. The wires at the Honeywell ST699 move to the Hive terminals that have exactly the same function. Where there are two wires in a terminal both wires make the transfer and stay connected together. Thanks Les. I have a multi meter and I'm reasonably competent at electrical stuff but I have little understanding of what signals what and when when it comes to central heating systems.

Hi, I recently replaced a 27 year old Honeywell ST699 Programmer with a new ST9400c. Whilst system delivers Heating and Hot Water, it will not deliver Hot Water when HW only is selected (despite green LED being illuminated) i.e. boiler does not fire. My wiring changes were as follows: Just because the boiler was switching on and off doesn't necessarily mean it was obeying the cylinder 'stat, it could be just 'modulating' - turning itself on and off to control it's output. (As the cylinder heats up, so will the hot water return. So the boiler needs to provide much less heat to this water before it sends it around again. Ergo the boiler may need to shut itself off for a short while. In this case, the pump would keep running.) The old room thermostat can't simply be disconnected as this would leave the heating wiring 'open circuit' and the heating will not operate, so, the two live wires that used to go to the thermostat then need to be joined together to complete the circuit. This can be done where the thermostat was by putting them in a junction box, or at their origin, and then the old thermostat cable can be disconnected completely. Thanks, Sam. Could this resistor (R2) be affected so's its resistance is lowered? Usually when a resistor becomes damaged - overheated, etc - the resistance increases, but I wonder if something could have happened in this case to lower the value to the extent it keeps the boiler/pump running after the valve moves? Nah, I don't think so either... Just thinking aloud I thought the job was done however it seems that the heating still won’t come on… can’t tell if the hot water is working as when I turn the shower on it is hot but we do have a hot water tank. Any help would be appreciated I can’t see where my wiring is wrong but as you may have gathered this isn’t my strong suit.Ahh..............interesting. It was in the middle. I pushed it to the "manual" end a few times and allowed it to return to the middle. Then when I switched the main switch on, the pump ran for a second or two then stopped, which sounds to be what should happen.......................? It's often the case that a standard cable L, N, E is used to connect a room thermostat and the N conductor is often used as the switched live. It should really have a brown sleeve over it (or red in the case of older installations) to indicate that it is being used as a live, but not all do, as you have discovered. Ok, try this; power off, and move the lever from one extreme to t'other a few times. What does it feel like? Does it move smoothly against spring pressure? Both ways? Does it make a faint 'whirring' sound both ways? Where does it 'settle' when released?

I also had problems configuring Nest, it used terms like system boiler and mine is not a system boiler the pump is exterior, and it switched on the domestic hot water at what seemed random times, it turned out is was anti legionaries and it could be disabled, but took me ages to find out why it was doing it. As you have a 3-port motorised valve connected [the clue is that there is a wire connected to the HW off terminal] then inside the motorised valve is a microswitch that controls the boiler when the heating is required, which means the Hive won't be controlling the boiler directly. Hive controls the motorised valve, and when the valve is in the central heating position that fires the boiler.

So hot water off on the programmer and hot water off on the tank thermostat but connect to the grey wire on motorised valve to turn DHW off, default is DHW on. Hi Graham. When you say the boiler is permanently 'on', what's it supplying - the hot water or the radiators? I still suspect the valve because: (a) even if the programmer was faulty, the room 'stat would still control the boiler as it's connected in series. From what you say the boiler behaves funny even if the room stat is turned down? (b) Why should turning the main switch and programmer off make the valve 'behave' when the power is turned on again? You are suggesting that the programmer works better after having the power turned off? How could that be? PF Community Forums General Off-Topic Chat For Sale & Wanted Make a suggestion about the forum in general

Graham, the motorised valve wiring - and what happens inside - is a lot more complicated than I thought! There's apparently a resistor/diode thingy going on which holds the valve in the CH positon even when the CH is turned off. The resistor is then meant to introduce enough of a resistance to turn the pump and boiler off. Yeah, I don't understand that either.

But I see a post like yours, and I think of my central heating, I have two pumps, two motorised valves, the domestic hot water and bathroom radiator is thermo syphon, no control other than boiler run time as to domestic hot water, and closest plan is a C Plan, I still am not sure of pipe layout, but I have got a wiring diagram of the system.