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King Japanese Nagura Stone #8000

£10.45£20.90Clearance
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After you've finished sharpening your katana, it's important to clean it thoroughly. This involves removing any metal particles left on the blade from the sharpening process, as well as any excess water from the stones. Use a clean, soft cloth to gently wipe down the entire blade. Be sure to get into all the nooks and crannies, as any remaining moisture can cause the blade to rust over time. However, do remember that every blade is unique and what works for one katana may not work for another. It's important to get to know your blade and adjust your techniques accordingly. This is part of the beauty of owning a katana - each one has its own personality, its own needs, and its own story to tell. Common Mistakes to Avoid

A: Any professional polisher can do this but it is an inappropriate thing to do. Because doing this will leave a dip or wave in the sword, plus the refinishing of the rest of the sword will have to be do with only Hazuya and Jizuya. There may be other areas that have very mild staining that may not be totally visible. At best the polish will look just ok. No good polisher will want to associate is good name to that kind of work, only a polisher that has no pride in his work and just wants the money will do this to a sword. When storing your katana, it's also a good idea to wrap it in a protective cover, such as a silk bag. This helps to keep dust and moisture away from the blade and can also prevent accidental scratches or other damage. Remember, a katana is not just a tool, it's a piece of art. It deserves to be treated with respect and care. Regular Maintenance of Your KatanaA true katana is a hand-forged blade, crafted using techniques that have been refined over the centuries. When you look at a polished katana, you're not just seeing a weapon, but a testament to a samurai's resolve. The process of learning how to sharpen a katana is a nod to this history. It's a way to connect with the samurai spirit and uphold the traditions that make the katana more than just a sword. It's a tradition that's been passed down through generations, and it's a responsibility that every katana owner should take seriously. Components of a Katana The heart of the sharpening process lies in the application of the sharpening stone. Traditional Japanese water stones, soaked in water until bubbles cease to rise, are the go-to choice for this task. Starting with the edges of the coarse stone, lay the blade flat on the stone and then tilt it slightly until you find the correct angle. This correct angle, typically between 15 and 20 degrees for a katana, is crucial for achieving a razor-sharp edge. Once the blade is clean, apply a thin layer of protective oil. This helps to prevent rust and keeps the blade looking its best. Be sure to use an oil that's specifically designed for swords, as other oils can contain additives that may harm the blade. Apply the oil using a soft cloth, spreading it evenly across the entire surface of the blade. Remember, a little oil goes a long way. You don't need to drench the blade, just give it a light coating. Storing the Katana Correctly FULL POLISH” correct description: To polish a sword after a complete analyses of the sword. The good points and the bad points have to be considered before a sword is placed on a stone. After evaluating the sword a professional polisher will choose at what stone he may want to start at. In many cases, a polisher can start with the Binsu stone or Kaise stone or Nagura stone (For more information please look at “Foundation Polish”). The Arato stone is very aggressive and should be avoided as much as possible. In this way he will remove as little steel as possible. Even starting at a later stone, the work will be very hard, so this sword is still receiving a full polish. After the foundation work the sword will be finish to reveal all the points necessary in a high level polish. Using soft nagura like this is done where a hard whetstone is desired to give you a better working surface which will not easily dish out after sharpening an edge. This will provide the benefits of the softer particles coming off the nagura stone and allow different naguras to be used in a progression. Using successively finer naguras will reuslt in a better edge then the whetstone alone would produce for blades such as razors. This method will still pull particles from the whetstone via the rubbing of the nagura, but very few will be mixed in.

Sharpening Stones Japanese Natural Stones Natural Nagurastones Natural Stones from Kyushu Koppa style natural Ozuku sharpening stones Using Japanese Waterstones Other Sharpening Stones, Honing Guides, Accessories Missarkastones

Full or Touch-up Polish?

Cleaning Finishing Stones: Finishing stones always become contaminated with pixie dust and grit from rougher stones. A 10,000 grit stone with 1,000 grit particles mixed in is much less than 10,000 grit effective. If you think a stone is contaminated, wash it well with a scrub brush and clean water then work the surface with a clean Nagura stone to loosen and float up the contaminate particles, then wash off the slurry. The stone will be clean. The Knifewear Nagura Stone developed in part by our good friends at Naniwa, one of the premier manufacturers of sharpening supplies, is in essence a very hard 600 grit stone. Here’s how it works: With artificial waterstones, which are far more common these days, there is of course no contamination that needs to be removed and most people use flattening plates of some sort to keep their stones flat. If you use a diamond stone for flattening and you just let the stone dry with the slurry from flattening on it and you have lots of slurry. In that sense the nagura is obsolete.

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