ProGold Xtreme Chain Lubricant 4oz, Yellow, One Size

Product Information

visionset: How many miles you get out of chain is irrelevent unless you also state oyur maintenance philosophy. If you are running the whole drive train into the ground (or at least cahin and cassette) you probably can get 10,000 miles out of it. No one is gonna be impressed with the shfiting on said drive train after say 3000 miles. Or alternatively you intend to keep your cassette throun many chains, and you can for probably 10 chains if you wear to 100.2% Yep that's just 0.2% of wear. equates to about 5mm of 'stretch'. Over this and you start to shag the cassette. If you are on Ultegra or better then the latter approach is cost effective and always a crisp change to boot. I use RnR gold, RnR red, Muc Off wet, Muc Off dry. Pretty lazy cleaning and applying but when used even the filthiest chain sets smooth out.

ProGold Prolink Chain Lube | Bikebug ProGold Prolink Chain Lube | Bikebug

The downside I’ve found is that I store my bike in my office at work, and ProLink reeks like an oil refinery. I added some patchouli oil to the bottle, and now my office reeks like a hippy oil refinery. — Joe B. Who doesn’t like the sound of a clean ride? This wax-based dry lube from White Lightning is designed to shed while you ride. I do this weekly. If you have time for a four hour bike ride on Saturday, you have time to spend six hours on your chain on Sunday (you can get it down to six hours once you've done it a few times.) Tester George writes: “Muc-Off claim that the lube performs to the highest standards in a variety of conditions, from hot and dusty to cold and wet. I managed to test in some fairly diverse conditions that included each of these and I would agree that it performs well. With terrible weather at the start of an 80km followed by heat, there was no clunking or shifting lag, even under load at the end.

Since I put between 10,000 and 12,000 miles per year on my Cervelo, I want the chains (and drivetrain) to last as long as possible. To ensure this, I have come to only use ProLink. It has always performed excellent on all of my chains. I have tried most As with any products, you should follow the instructions because generally it’s recommended to start with a clean chain before applying lube, rather than just layering it up. Do I really need to lube my chain? Tester Steph writes: “As a dry lube, it is designed for mixed riding, but mainly in dry conditions (it will work with the odd puddle or splash). The wax is supposed to wear off over time, and in the process of doing this, it leaves a cleaner chain by taking off any grime with it. Combines a powerful cleaning solvent formula that is tough on grease yet safe on the hands. Solvent is integrated with industrial strength, super absorbent, dual-textured towels. We also asked our readers to weigh in on their favorite lubes for mountain bikes, and in looking over the data, we found some interesting insights.

ProGold ProLink Chain Lube user reviews : 4.3 out of 5 - 204 ProGold ProLink Chain Lube user reviews : 4.3 out of 5 - 204

The type of bike you have bought and the type of riding you have planned will affect how soon you need to book your free service. matthewn5: Singer sewing machine oil. Cheap and lasts for ever. I use Muc-off wet lube as a flushing oil to clean the chain, wipe it off, then apply sewing maching oil, wiping off excess. The chain feels so plush afterwards, it's lovely.Rian_constant replied to PRSboy: Wax-based lubricants are the first choice for summer bikes. Advantages of wax without the hassle and dangers of melting wax. Reapplying is done in less than a minute.

ProLink Chain Lube – ProGold

Ice Wax 2.0 from Pedro's is a chain lubricant that aims to reduce the time you spend cleaning your chain, by doing it for you in part. A lube for dry conditions, it's perfect for summer riding. When it was launched Muc-Off's Hydrodynamic Lube was presented as the most high tech chain lubricant that has ever been created. After using it, we'd say you'd struggle to find a better high end lube. Argus Tuft: One or two weeks between lubes is about right, maybe 300-400km.When it starts to make the whirring sound. Boatsie: I used vegetable oil once. Smooth as.. At end of ride I must have collected a sandbox worth of sand though.. Grindy as.

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And if you’re wondering why you can’t use WD40 or GT85, they’re water displacement products and should only really be used after cleaning your bike and before correct lubrication. They have some lubricating properties, and plenty of uses on bikes and round the house, but they're not up to the job of keeping a bike chain properly protected. Squirt lube easily survived 30-odd miles of normal commuting in all weathers, at which point it faced about the sternest test possible: 40 miles in the salt, snow and rain finishing up on the muddy, puddle-strewn canal towpath. I wouldn't expect any lube to survive that and the chain showed some evidence of rust the next day after a hose down, but it wasn't noisy - there was still some lube in there, so it's pretty tenacious stuff. I looove Prolink!! Stays clean and lasts! Lubricates better than every other lube I have ever used.

Prolink Chain Lube 4oz - Analog Cycles Prolink Chain Lube 4oz - Analog Cycles

Dry Degreasing for Precision Bicycle Parts. Blast Off’s sprayer deep-cleans and flushes dirt, grime, and grease This is the second product I tested and used. I thought why not clean the dirtiest part of the bike, the chain. Give yourself the comfort of no obligation free insurance, make sure you have peace of mind from the moment you leave the store. If anything happens to the bike in the first 10 days of ownership, know you are covered!I have found it best to over-lube the chain, and then wipe it down the next morning before the ride. This gives the ProLink chain oil a chance to soak in — working itself between the pins, bushings and plates. The chain will then be able to perform at The best bicycle chain lubes get right into the links of your chain to lubricate it, and then stay there. The latest chain lubes include fiendishly clever additives which allow them to coat metal surfaces without attracting crud. They're expensive, but arguably worth the money if you're running an expensive transmission and want to prolong its life. Note: this is a concentrated degreaser and meant to be diluted with water. ProGold recommends 1 part degreaser with 3 parts water. After testing this on various items, my opinion is that this concentration depends on what you are cleaning.The other day, I went to put my bike in the SUV and noticed some crud all over one of the aluminum ‘mag’ wheels. Seemed to be a combination of either a dog or cat finding my wheel coupled with some road tar. I tested several other manufacturers products which claim to ‘foam away’ wheel dirt, but none worked like spraying a little full strength ProGold Degreaser+Wash and using one of their PRO Towels. After about 15 seconds of minimal elbow grease, the stain was reduced 90%. No other cleaner I tried even came close to removing this stain.After the training ride, I used this degreaser full strength spraying it directly on the dirty/greasy cassette. Since I was also using a brush dipped in water, this made for the perfect concentration. After a light spray-off from a hose, the cassette was very clean with 95% of the grease and crud removed.If using on the frame, I recommend using their 1:3 dilution. Take a clean towel, soak in water, lightly ring, then spray 2-3 squirts onto the wet towel. Ring the town out slightly and this will be the perfect concentration for your frame. So far, no paint has been harmed using this concentration A friend of mine was doing that years ago, and suffered third degree facial burns when it caught fire as she was heating it. Be *very* careful. Oh boy, you wouldn't like how I got only 500 miles out of my last chain (Shimano HG40) before it was stretched 1%. That's with obsessive wiping after every ride. On a city bike.