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Of course, one of the first steps in making a wattle fence is choosing your wood. The wood you choose to use will have an impact on how strong and sturdy your fencing will be. Simply continue to weave the branches between the stakes until your fence is as tall as you want it to be, or you have run out of materials. Push the weavers down as you go, to create a lattice of the required spacing. The more firmly you push down the weavers, the more sturdy and solid your fencing will be. Wattle always works particularly well in rustic, cottage style gardens and Victorian themed kitchen gardens. You can use it in a number of ways, including support structures for squash, courgettes, and pumpkins.
The construction of wattles starts with the uprights, whether they are set into a frame or placed into the ground. Starting at the bottom, flexible willow shoots, called withies, are woven in and out of the uprights (staves). The fence is made up of two parts. Uprights, also known as “sales” and saplings, known as the “weavers”.
What Exactly is Wattle?
It is best to choose green, freshly cut wood, which will be pliable and more easy to weave through your structure. Making Design Decisions Mark a jagged line around the area where you would like to install the fencing. For a straight fence, use a straight wall, and if you want some curve in your fence, use a garden hose for a base to build the fence.
Once you have reached the desired fence height, leave at least an inch long of the upright at the top. Tidy up the loose ends by trimming on the right side of the constructed fence. Your impenetrable static wattle fence is ready! All the materials you are using come from your yard or the woods anyway. Over time, these fences became an essential part of Victorian gardens. The History of the Wattle Fence Unlike the wattle hurdle maker, the gate hurdle maker was historically a village worker rather than a woodland worker, transporting his raw material to the village workshop. Gate hurdle making was widespread in Hampshire and Berkshire, where it was needed to supply the demands of the sheep farmers on the downs there. Baghurst, Hampshire, was the best-known centre of the gate hurdle trade but by 1959, the last of the gate hurdle makers there was forced by economic circumstances to find alternative work (Jenkins, 1978).Try to cut yours as long as possible, as you’ll need to weave them in and around your posts. Aim for at least six feet long, as these are long enough to weave, but short enough to be manageable. This is my favorite wood to use because I can forage it where I live. It’s also strong enough to hold up to my climate. Willow is also appealing because even if it dries out, you can simply soak it in water for 24 hours and it will regain elasticity. Split hazel hurdles are renowned for their durability and strength, thanks to their larger diameter rods that are split in half to reveal distinctive wood grain that ages beautifully over time. The striking contrast between the natural bark and the smooth inner wood in the weave creates a unique and eye-catching fence. Each of our meticulously crafted hurdles tells a story through the artisanal workmanship that goes into every piece.
The stake of poles needs to be as close as possible to 1 ½ inch in diameter. They can be larger than that, but not smaller. Drill holes into end caps using any types of drills (a battery-powered drill is best for this application) and the right types of drill bits.
The “uprights” need to be made from older, heavier wood. I use half-split hazel stakes around 3–4 inches in diameter, sharpened at one end to make a point. As an example: for a three-foot fence, you need around a 4 to 4.5-foot stake. Assembly: The various sections are placed in the right position on a special brake and the heads are trapped firmly on to the rails. The braces are placed in position fixed with nails. The nail heads are flattened so that they lie completely flat against the gate hurdle. If that fails too, you can find them cheap on the garden market. I should repeat that although there are woody species that are more convenient for the purpose than the others, you can use any branches flexible enough to be woven into a fence.
It is advantageous to treat your fence with a wood preservative at least once a year. This will improve its life span and protect it against the elements. I use either linseed oil or turpentine oil, both of which are easy to paint on, and available at your local garden store. Other Wattle Ideas Photo credit: Sussex Gates However, garden hurdles vary from 3ft to 6ft high, and usually only have nine zales (the least you can have to make a tight weave) – and no twilley hole (Tabor 1994: 132-133). If you’re making your fence during a dry period or a drought spell, you can soak the ground a few hours before stake installation.In addition to designing gardens, Elizabeth also works in a consultancy capacity, offering ongoing support and training for gardeners and growers around the globe. She has created booklets and aided in the design of Food Kits to help gardeners to cool and warm climates to grow their own food, for example. She is undertaking ongoing work for NGO Somalia Dryland Solutions and a number of other non governmental organisations, and works as an environmental consultant for several sustainable companies. Wattle fence at Walnut’s Farm, Sussex Weald, UK. This photo was originally found at “www.walnutsfarm.co.uk”. Wattle Fence Of Hazel Wood Here is a simple step-by-step guide on how to build a wattle fence: Step 1 - Collecting the Materials for the Fence I’m sorry, I know that’s frustrating! Sadly, the only purveyors of wattle wood that I’ve found are based mostly in the UK where people still frequently use wattle. If you’re in the US, like I am, you’ll be hard pressed to find a source. As well as thinking about the practicalities, you may also wish to think about the aesthetics. For example, consider whether you want straight fencing, or would prefer a curving and organic design.
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