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Ghostbusters Suit Classic Toddler Halloween Costume

£9.9£99Clearance
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Finally install the 2 blue bargraphs to the power-cell. Wire 10 differenct colour wires to these. One wire to two positive pins in sequence from bottom to top. Also there is a slight error on the board schematic. When I designed it I left positive nodes to help power the Arduino and sound boards etc. In my haste I put these before the main switch so if connected they will always draw power. To eliminate this issue make sure all power connections are after switch one. Power is returned to part 3 of the board which in turn sends power to the other sound board that makes the neutrino wand sound while its active.

See Image schematic with highlighted areas of what is created in Foam, it is basically the Synchronous generator , cyclotron and cyclotron band that is created out of foam. ( I also bulked up the base of the Iron arm using Foam underneath). On the front end pipe hot glue a flashing blue LED with attached positive and negative wires about an inch below the visible edge. Then cut a 2 inch piece of plastic clear tubing and hot glue that to the end of the pipe.Also position the N-Filter on the bottom right hand of the synchronous generator so that half or more of the filter will be overlapping the cyclotron and over the hole made earlier. Draw around the bits that overlap with the cyclotron. Then from here it sends power to a 555 timer chip which creates a pulse. This in turn goes into a Johnsons decade counter chip that creates a cycling power on and off swapping between pins until the reset is called at pin5. This creates the 4 cycling LEDS on the cyclotron. As a member of the paranormal extermination team known as the Ghostbusters, you'll be called upon to investigate strange situations of suspected supernatural activity. Before you sign on we need you to raise your right hand and repeat this phrase: “I ain't afraid of no ghost.” Congratulations! Suit up in your Ghostbusters costume because you're hired! Solder all the negative pins together on a piece of circuit board and then solder the ground wire out the main board to this also.

Finally cut out a thin metal piece the same size as the opening at the bottom of the neutrino husk and glue in place. To remove any sharp edges hot glue all the way around the metal cover.Next cut 7 Wires preferably of different colours and feed them through the flexible tubing onto the rear of the neutrino. Now when you have all your 3D printed and foam parts you just need to gather up a few extra resources. These are needed for the tubing and wires to attach to on top of the synchronous generator and all Pipes. On top put in a white LED and under the Vents at the top glue in 3 Blue LEDs in parallel with a 230ohm resistor.

Now push the top piece of the cyclotron over the LEDS and the N-Filter and hot glue down. It should sit nice and snug and will seal the wiring from sight underneath. Glue one end of the flexible tubing to the rear tubing of the neutrino wand and secure with electrical tape. I modified an existing file on the Web to meet the needs of a working neutron gun. Here is a link to the original file Original neutron files. Next using an Iron apply heat and pressure on top of the board for a few minutes trying to be as evenly as possible.From this I Used this overall template to get a general layout of what I needed and where to position it. Get a 5 pence piece of a small disk of 18mm diameter and with half of it over the top edge of the foam draw around it to make a semi circle. Move the 5 pence over just slightly more than the 18mm and repeat 3 times. Take the an LED Base and hot glue one LED inside feeding the wires out the exit hole in the side. Repeat for each base. Power is returned to part 2 of the board which then feds into the 4 and gates along with the power from the arduino cycling which then in turn lights the yellow bargraph on the neutrino wand in a scale up and down motion. Install the switches - ( two toggle switches on the face one above the other and one push switch on the left)

It saved me a lot of time in the design phase, so all I did was take the object file of the main body and modified it so the inside was hollow enough to place the LEDs and electronics and hollowed out the switch and LED positions. From this I create my 3D file attached here) Next print out the circuit schematic on photo paper with a laser printer. ( I had to use the one at my work) Solder two wires to each of the LEDs . One on the positive resistor terminal and one on the negative - take note which is which.Then take the Yellow LED bargraph and solder 10 different colour wires to each of the positive pins. Dont forget to include the external wire connections needed on the face of the circuit board as shown in the images. Then using a needle and red thread go around the letters until completely covered and remove the paper when complete. Make a hole through to the other side roughly where you're going to put the N Filter, this is for the LED leads to feed to the main board below.

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