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Posted 20 hours ago

Silverline Magnetiser/Demagnetiser 50 x 50 x 30mm (245116)

£3.95£7.90Clearance
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When the tool is magnetized, something called magnetic moments are aligned. They are basically the magnetic behavior of small areas of the tool. You can think of them as a field of arrows. When the tool is demagnetized all the arrows are random, resulting in an insignificant net magnetic field. A typical Bunting magnetising system consists of a capacitor discharge magnetiser, a magnetising fixture and sometimes an additional automatic handling system. Bunting Magnetics Europe manufactures both magnetisers and fixtures in the UK to our own standard design or to bespoke customer designs.

something on you can spool your coil (I use a plastic support from solder with inner diameter 20 mm [don't use something that have the inner diameter bigger than 20 mm because then your magnetizer will not work]) volt supply - 5 circuits of a train set 'oval' in 25 seconds for most, hauling 4 SD6 coaches. (Just over 100 scale mph.) I tend to achieve the same thing, present layout is the largest, longer trains require stronger locomotives. I find with age some are getting better, I suspect it's due to constant use as compared to sitting in the box for most of their 60 years of life. The steel has gone through a loop of increasing and then decreasing magnetic fields but the withdrawal step leaves a residual field, thus when you plot the field in the steel you get a loop – that’s the hysteresis loop. If the material follows the arrows in the drawing below it ends up magnetized at the point Mrs. Magnetising fixtures are generally custom designed for each application, and therefore should be the first thing to consider when purchasing a magnetising system. Fixtures can be supplied with many different types of magnetisation patterns from simple 2 pole solenoids, to complex multipole systems. As a long time manufacturer of permanent magnets, in particularly bonded Neodymium ring magnets, Bunting Magnetics have been manufacturing magnetising fixtures for our own internal use for many years, and have developed a particular area of expertise in the design of multipole magnetising systems for radial or axial ring magnet assemblies or sensor magnets.Vertical motors tend to be critical of brush tension, I have always found. For the 1/2" and Tri-ang motors it seems to make little difference.

I wondered myself. I try to aim for all my Dublo locomotives to achieve the specification* speed/load haulage set out in the 'bible', allowing a few seconds for age. Most manage it, but a few excel.

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Ihave listed this as “used condition” as it is a homemade article, but all the parts are new and it’s only use has beenin testing and proving the product. a plastic, wood, Plexiglas, or any material you found, but NO metals like iron, steel, aluminum, copper or any metal that are atracted I have made a couple of videos to demonstrate it’s use on YouTube please follow the link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yyyPKCHa0gQ or search for Hornby Dublo magnetiser. You will also be able to see my Hornby Dublo service videos and my extensive layout. By following my service videos and with the use of a good magnetiser your trains should run at least as well as the day they left the factory. I am still angered at how many people have negatively criticised this project. The author is a school student and this is only his second project. We all had to start somewhere. Even if the capacitor is rated at 400V, it is never going to charge beyond the mains voltage of 220-240V. There are many un-earthed appliances that rely on plastic insulation to keep the electricity inside, among the most dangerous being hair dryers and hand-held kitchen mixers. This one is based on an original Meccano design saw the plans somewhere, next stage is source all the electrical components if still available. Getting the roughly the right number of turns is the easy bit, work out diameter of wire, think its 0.018 of an inch divide into length of coil 2 ins, then divide into 2600 which worked out about an inch from inner row. Don't forget to thread though the inner row first, use a cordless drill, great fun watching it wind.

It's a multi tool, idea for magnetising screw drivers etc, I've a 1 inch core solenoid for spanners. I've notice that most Hornby Dublo have strong magnetic fields, they will interfere with a compass if placed with 6 inches, often wonder if stored in an engine shed do they interfere with each other Although the initial outlay may be a little high, it is still more economical than replacing your magnets with Neo types which WILL, in the long run cause undue and excessive wear to your precious mechanisms. (See note) or the ever increasing cost of sending your locos by post to get re-magnetised. Note:- A standard Hornby Dublo loco with a standard (re-magnetised) magnet as originally designed, has more pulling power than you will ever reasonably need. I have demonstrated this on my YouTube channel with a (weighted) Duchess locomotive and 30 coaches in tow (over 25 feet long) without overloading the motor. Worth watching all of Ron Dodds videos, the magnetic direction is important, my pole pieces already have strong magnetic force so getting the magnet the right way is easy they attract, providing of course they don't get put in the wrong way, they are marked. The capacitor, on average, is capable of holding 3kVDC maybe even as high as 5kVDC. It would have to remain properly housed in the modified microwave oven just in case it exploded.

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