Games Workshop Citadel Bombe sous-couche - Aérosol Contrast Wraithbone

Product Information

Second, the mattness. The more matte the primer, the better the paint will adhere on your Warhammer miniature. A matt surface is rough on a microscopic level, which gives acrylic paint more grip. If, on the other hand, the primer is too glossy, paint adheres less well and you need to apply more coats for an opaque result, and thin paints such as washes / Shade paints or Contrast paints can even drip off. The gloss is a disadvantage of many metallic spray paints, and the only thing you can do about it is to paint over with a thin layer of a matching metallic paint or a matt/satin varnish. When I put Guilliman Flesh over Desert Tan I was surprised how close it actually was to putting it over Wraithbone. The flesh WAS somewhat darker, but not drastically, at least not to me. The Contrast spray primers also come with matching base paint versions. I tested Wraithbone and as you can see, the result is pretty close. However, even though Wraithbone is a base paint, the coverage is as you would expect from a light, almost white bone colour – not that great. It took me about 6 or 7 thin layers for perfect coverage over a medium grey primer. Because of the number of layers, I had to apply the result wasn’t perfectly smooth and I noticed the Contrast paint dried noticeably more uneven. Contrast paints really benefit from a perfectly smooth base coat. Experimenting with Contrast paints & Contrast Medium I've got lots of models I painted with Contrasts over the past year, and I honestly can't tell or remember what primer I used!

When the basecoat is smooth, most Contrast paints will dry with a surprisingly smooth and even finish. However, like washes, Contrast paints still have a tendency to pool on larger flat surfaces. Soak up any excess paint with a clean brush to reduce the amount of pooling. However, the GW Mechanicus Standard Grey, the Testors Gray and the Rustoleum/Krylon gray primers are quite a bit darker. They are kind of rogues on this list. I wouldn't use them as first choices to use with the Contrasts. Put it this way. The Contrasts weren't TECHNICALLY designed to be put over a gray that dark, but to a certain point you can use gray and it will work. But there's a cutoff point. The three I have on the list are about as dark as you can go with a gray primer and still have the Contrasts actually still be able to be show up on them. Anything darker and it would probably cancel out many if not most of the Contrast colors in the range. In other words, because of how Contrasts work Zenithal might be a waste of time. The Contrasts kind of already do on their own what Zenithal and shade washes would do. I've got a bunch of models on my gaming table right now that I painted over the past month where I used tan primers and also a bunch I did using Wraithbone, White, etc. I'll try to get some pictures taken and will post them here so you can actually see some examples and see if you can tell any major difference. Most people use both terms and mean the same thing. But the difference between primer and spray paints is that “real” primers contain a solvent that creates a stronger bond with the surface of the miniature and thus provides better adhesion and higher resistance. Spray paints do not contain solvent, or less of it.

The Foundations

My army will have quite a lot of colours, so I'd like to have the most uniform look which is possible under the circumstances by setting the same colour tone.

Would you say the difference between wraithbone and vallejo desert tan is big/clearly noticeable when the colours are applied (in terms of color tone). Vallejo desert tan seems to be a lot more yellow, however if the difference to that one is noticable but not that big I might be tempted to try some of the bone white or off white alternatives. With GW's current situation it might be months until I get my hands on a new can of wraithbone spray...Let’s move on with our Citadel Contrast review. Along with the 34 shades of Contrast Games Workshop also sells two types of spray primers with a matching base paint: Grey Seer, which is a light grey (similar to Ulthuan Grey), and Wraithbone, a light bone colour (similar to Terminatus Stone). Advertised to have a special formula best suitable for Citadel Contrast paints, these primers have a slightly smoother, more satin finish. The smoother finish helps to reduce the surface tension of the paint, so the pigments will better run into the recesses and reduce the amount of pooling (slightly). This effect will also benefit washes like Citadel Shade paints by the way. Now when I say the Contrasts look "different" over different primer colors, it's pretty subjective. I would bet a lot of gamers would have a hard time when looking at an entire army of Contrast-painted models and be able to tell which had Wraithbone underneath and which had Grey Seer, etc. What I'm looking for is a substitute spray which looks as close to wraithbone as possible, or rather produces the same tone after I put on the colours.

Wow, well the best answer I can give is that with some Contrast colors there's almost no difference, with others there is "some" difference. Regarding zenithal: I keep reading that it supposedly works very well with Contrast colors. I assume you have to dillute them a bit for that purpose. So it is something I would try with bigger miniatures and bigger surfaces, where Contrasts themselves would seem to be less efficient. Regiments I will probably undercoat with a single color, depending on the miniatures.I was allowed to test White Scar Sprayand it has very good coverage and is easy to use.I also realise why Games Workshop is replacing Corax White. Many people have asked for a true white primer, and many of the 25 new Contrast paints are very vibrant, and a pure white basecoat will really help to give these colours a boost. Here is a Kruleboy I painted with the new Shade and Contrast Paints over White Scar primer, and you can see how much the new magenta Contrast paint pops on his shield: Since the Contrasts are all for intents and purposes glorified inks, and they work by staining on the high areas and gathering in the low areas, the color of primer underneath is just there to facilitate that. As long as the primer is light enough, the Contrasts at least in my opinion tend to "overcome" most of the differences between like a light gray primer vs. a light tan primer or white primer.