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Revell 30ml Decal Soft

£9.9£99Clearance
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First, although Microsol is not the strongest solution available it can be too much for some decals. I always test on an unwanted decal from any decal sheet to make sure it won't destroy the ones I intend to use on the model. If there is a problem you can always dilute the solution with water. I'd recommend this no matter which of the decal solutions you are using. This is a lesson I learnt the hard way! I use microsol and set and humbrol decal Fix. I soak the decals in decal Fix if I use that and brush the model too. Does a good job. As does the microscale stuff The best way I’ve found to solve this is to give the surface a coat of gloss varnish before I apply the miniature. I have a pot of Games Workshop ‘Ard Coat which I only rever use for this purpose: by brushing on a generous amount of varnish to the surface, you will get a nice smooth surface upon which you can apply the decal: all the troughs and peaks will be smoothed out and you won’t have air gaps underneath. Essentially the dreaded silvering, where the decal carrier film becomes visible, is caused by microscopic air bubbles under the decal. There is a much higher likelihood of this occurring on a rough, matt, surface than on a smoother gloss one.

Decal Soft 30ml Revell 39693 - super-hobby.dk Decal Soft 30ml Revell 39693 - super-hobby.dk

Edit @ October 2016: as above, use a spray lacquer. Another gloss coat protects the decal and gives it an even finish which matches the paint underneath. As always, model making is as much about follow instructions as it is about following your own creativity. Decals are a great way to enhance your model even further, so add them where you see fit and make your model stand out!While this is often enough to keep the decal in place, if you feel it necessary you can use the second paint brush to apply the second decal solution on top of the decal. This will set it firmly. The Revell Decal Soft 30ml in the modelling accessories range provides a softening solutions to aid in applying decals over uneven surfaces.

Is decal soft really worth it? : r/modelmakers - Reddit Is decal soft really worth it? : r/modelmakers - Reddit

I swear by Testor’s Dull-cote, but Army Painter’s matt spray looks good and there are probably plenty of others. Avoid Games Workshop’s Purity Seal if at all possible, unless you like your minis frosted. Adding a matt finish takes the shine off the gloss varnish without taking away to protective layer. Updated: November 10, 2016Second, the blue Microset bottle looks a LOT like the bottle that the Liquid Decal Film comes in. You do not want to splosh this on your model instead of Microset unless you really want to start painting again! Another lesson learnt the hard way! By process of trial and error (mostly error) I have worked out what I think is the best way to add decals to your miniatures. For anyone who’s built a model kit or wargaming miniature and been really pleased with the paint job, only to have it ruined by crappily finished decals, here’s my guide to doing them right, enhanced by my laughably amateurish diagrams. For any tight curves or areas that the decal needs to conform to that is not flat, you can apply a little heat using a hairdryer set to low (so as not to distort or melt the decal or model part). Once the decal is in place, carefully warm the area with the hairdryer to make the decal soft so that you can push out any creases or bubbles that may have appeared.

Decals | Scale Models Forums Decals | Scale Models Forums

Decals consist of an image printed onto a thin film. The film is brittle and plastic, in the technical sense that it remembers its shape (a flat sheet) and will try to return to it if possible. That means that unless you’re applying the decal to a perfectly flat surface like a mirror, you’re going to end up with gaps underneath the decal, which will result in bubbles that will ruin the finish. Air gaps beneath the decal will result in an uneven finish Before you apply decals, you’ll need to have your workspace cleared and all the necessary tools on hand. Here is a list of the tools you’ll need: Decals (or transfers, or whatever you want to call them) can, when done properly, bring a lot to a miniature. But for whatever reason, following the instructions that come with them is guaranteed to result in a really crap result that looks awful. Below is an overview of the decal process, so give it a read and get your models looking as incredible as possible!AWIN, Sovendus, Meta-Pixel, Google Ads, Microsoft Advertising, creativecdn.com (RTBHouse), Ads Defender If you like to weather your decals, now’s the time. Google has plenty of advice on doing this if you’ve not done decal weathering before. We use a Secure Server for collecting personal and credit card information. The secure server layer (SSL) encrypts (scrambles) all of the information you enter before it is transmitted over the Internet and sent to us. All of the customer data we collect is protected against unauthorised access as per the Data Protection Act. Start off by carefully selecting the decal that you are going to place onto your model. Use a fresh hobby knife blade to cut as close to the artwork/lettering as you possibly can, so there is little or none of the unwanted clear vinyl that the self-adhesive decal is printed on. You can use a pair of scissors to cut out the decal, but you may find that a hobby knife is better suited to the task.

Revell Decal Soft, 30 ml - 3DJake UK

Once you have applied all your decals, and if you have done it correctly, they should now have the appearance of being painted on. From here, you can either leave the model with a gloss finish, or apply some weathering techniques. Your decal soft is a solution which will soften the decal film allowing the decal to conform more closely to the surface of the model, hopefully to get that painted on look we all want. There is no guarantee that it will prevent silvering. You might be able to mitigate silvering by piercing a decal with a needle or the end of a scalpel blade and flooding it with a decal solution, but again, there is no guarantee. It's far better to get it right initially and that's why I always recommend a gloss coat of your choice. It's only one more step in the process and the final desired finish can be achieved with a final coat of a suitable varnish. I have never used revel decal soft, but someone else can probably correct me if I am wrong. I normal use micro-sol and micro-set and presume the revel decal soft works in a similar fashion to micro-sol. House of Hobbies may release account information when we believe, in good faith, that such release is reasonably necessary to (i) comply with law, (ii) enforce or apply the terms of any of our user agreements or (iii) protect the rights, property or safety of House of Hobbies, our users, or others.Edit @ October 2016: nowadays I spray the entire model with a clear lacquer from Halfords (recommended to me by Phil Stutcinskas, a member of the Forge World studio), instead of painting varnish onto the surface where the decal is going to be applied. This protects the model, eliminates brush marks, and ensures an even finish. A layer of gloss varnish provides a smooth surface for the decal to adhere to.

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