Klein Tools Fox Wedge, Stainless Steel, 4-Inch 7FWSS10025

Product Information

This jig works well on my table saw and would work equally well on a band saw. It uses a wedge to provide fine adjustment of the angle. The stop at other side of the slot gives consistency to the thin end of the wedge. Have a look at the video to see it in action. Gluing up a TIMBER DOOR

I know you have books in the works. If it makes sense, I would greatly appreciate if if you have one include just the kind of thing about the fox tailed tenon included in it. Books feel more permanent to me. I am sure there are other unusual joints as well you could share with us as well so the are documented and we know when it makes sense to use them. It might also be useful to have an assistant to hand. If like me there's no one available, console yourself, there's no one to witness the minor panics. You might spot my “moments”even after the careful edits. Inside the mortise, after you’ve chopped out the main mortise, pare down the end walls at an angle to gradually widen to the bottom of the mortise, giving room for the wedges to spread into the vacant space and so give it the dovetailed effect that the joint depends on. How much you widen these end areas depends on the length of the tenon. Longer tenons flare out more readily than shorter ones which will offer greater resistance to spreading. In furniture work, we generally keep stopped or non-through mortise and tenons to a reasonable length. An apron to table leg for an average dining table for instance generally needs the M&T to be no longer or deeper than 2″ (50.8mm). Parallel grain produces ideal performance with wedging and maximises strength. Also, the wood yields in the bends more readily to conform within the walls of the mortise. The longer tenons spread more easily and are less likely to split than shorter ones.Fox wedging can be used with or without any shoulders to the tenons, but shoulders add strength to the lateral stability of most M&T joinery, so I might suggest keeping them as stops and as added strength to your joints. For this instructional we will have two bare-faced edges to the tenons, so shoulders to two wider sides. This maximises wood where it is needed and the shouldered sides seat the joint and work as long-term lateral stabilizers. We can arrange courier collection at your cost. For Non-Faulty goods, please inform us within 14 days of receipt of your intention to return them. If the option of taking them to a local dealership is not available then faulty goods should be returned to our head office.

You must notify us as soon as possible and ideally within 24 hours if at all possible, if your goods are subsequently found to be damaged. Wedging generally relied on clamping for seating the shoulders. Why use wedges? In the early days of screw threads and iron clamps the clamps were expensive and few and far between. Not like today when most woodworkers own a dozen or so. Clamping followed by wedging meant the clamps could be used immediately on the next frames so as soon as the wedges were driven the clamps were removed to be used elsewhere. Fox wedging seems to be touched on as a theory of hidden mortise and tenoning with a concealed mechanical dynamic. How many actually use it probably numbers none or one or two worldwide in any given day. Mostly that is with good reason. In most cases, fox wedging is unusually used. Regular mortise and tenons of the obvious types take care of just about everything frame-wise. That’s doors, windows, door frames, window frames, tables and chairs of every type. All in all, it is the single most used joint in the world. Adding a draw-bore pin increases the pullability strength and structure of the joint three-fold and more. The fox wedge is remarkably used in similar positions where it will counter specific types of pull, handles of all types, rails and so on. Of course, there is no true comparison between the two joint types. I am trying to imagine how much pounding pressure it would take to use a fox wedging on a timber-framed building with 12″ (30.48mm) by 18″ (457.2mm) beams, more than a mere wooden beetle or massive persuader, I think. For general furniture making and in the right place, this joint knows no equal. It can increase the integrity of a work incredibly when employed judiciously. At HIS Ltd we DO NOT operate a "Try & Return" policy. Faulty goods should be notified to us within 3 working days.The Mortise and Tenons are cut, they fit well. There is another part to the joints to keep them tight over time – WEDGING We recommend that goods should be inspected before they are signed for, as goods obviously damaged in transit should be REFUSED. The next part covers jointing boards. Then creating deep raised panels using a router table and basic tooling. Blind Fox wedge. The bottom of the blind mortise pushes the wedges in. I'll have to try this some time so I confuddle folks “How does it stay in with no glue?”

The next type of wedging was to simply drive wedges into saw kerfs cut into the tenon parallel to the long axis and allow the wedges to create pressure in the width of the joint, compressing the tenon width between the extremes of the mortise. Note: Some say "It's not a Fox Wedge unless it's blind" I stand to be corrected if the consensus goes that way, have your say.Calculating what will take place inside the joint can depend on the wood type, its compressibility, strength, and more. The necessary first calculation is the space you create in widening the bottom of the mortise. You should not only fill the space by creating a wedge commensurate to the space you created but any additional space for compression in the ‘ spring‘ from the wedges themselves, which will compress under driving pressure and then too the same spring in the tenon too. Key to a good fox wedging of the tenon is straight, knot-free, non-fractious grain in the tenon area. You are looking for continuous grain run extending through the tenon into the grain beyond the joint area and the reason for this is that you want the wood to remain intact inside the mortise hole itself. Short grain will usually break and within the joint, you will have lost the integrity if the wood is split off from the tenon. When this happens, you rely on glue alone, which may well hold, but the idea of the joint is to create additional mechanical strength within the wood and the whole joint — integrity — integrated, whole, complete. The real issue here though is that you may well not know this has happened. Look for short grain and especially any unusual or sudden change in grain direction around the tenon area. This grain shown will be weak and will split where you need continuous grain to maximise strength in the wedging of the tenon.