Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Base Warplock Bronze

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Highlight almost all the gold with Scale 75 Dwarven Gold, leaving the Necro Gold in just the recesses. coat d'arms match the OLD citadel colours so there might be some difference. Shining gold has the most noticeable difference, I airbrush Citadel Mephiston Red as a highlight. You can do this with a brush but this is why you buy an airbrush because it’s so much simpler with one. Although their numbers were greatly reduced during the Battle of the Webway during the Horus Heresy, the Legio Custodes now once again numbers ten thousand warriors, each dedicated to the protection of Terra. Since the return of Roboute Guilliman and his ascension to the role of Imperial Regent, they have lifted their self-imposed Edict of Restraint and once again begun crusading across the Imperium to bring swift death to the foes of mankind. They played a pivotal role in Guilliman’s battle against Magnus and the Thousand Sons on Luna, and in the defense of the Imperial palace. Such is their might that the Administratum has never recorded a single loss for the a battle that the Custodes have participated in.

Basically, paint upwards from a dark basecoat using a solidly painted area of metallics and then add washes to create colour hints and cut down the metallic shine. You don't need to own the exact colours the tutorial tells you to use, just mix them and go with whatever feels right.

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Brush-On Primer: A medium grey paint that can be applied as a primer over bare metal and plastic. The consistency of the primer is nice, it goes smoothly on models and doesn’t drip off like some thinner brush-on primers. The durability can’t match a spray primer of course. http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/media/e588d28183cec31ffd6dcee6d3718fc3.cms/equivalencias-rev05.pdf I noticed The Army Painter seemed to have changed their silver paints. In the early days of the Warpaints range, the formula used to be almost identical to the silver paints from the old Citadel paint range (Mithril Silver, Chainmail, Boltgun Metal). Super-fine pigments, smooth application, almost perfect coverage. Their “new” current generation of metallic paints are by no means bad, but I feel that their old versions were superior. They are also no match to Citadel’s more expensive white cap metallics or metallic paints like Scale75 Alchemy, Vallejo Metal Color, or Two Thin Coats metallics. Where to get Warpaints Wash the gold with Gloss Reikland Fleshshade. Necro Gold is a somewhat greenish gold, and the red tones in the fleshshade warm up the colors while retaining the darker tone. Flesh Wash: A reddish-brown wash for shading caucasian flesh, also useful for shading gold and copper. Compared to Reikland Fleshshade, it’s a nuance less reddish and it settles better in the recesses.

Finally, it’s not very visible on the final model, but the soft leather/cloth like the seat was simply: Cover all but the deepest recesses in Rhinox Hide / Vallejo Burnt Umber (whichever you have to hand). Again, I do this with an airbrush for time’s sake but you can do this with a brush quite easily. http://www.ttfxmedia.com/vallejo/cgi-bin/_modelis_info.asp?p1=ing&p2=modelcolor&p3=1#modelcolorinfo I hope this tutorial is an interesting read and you’ve found it useful. I try to make it simple to follow but also detailed. If anyone tries this out, I would love to see the results and I would find it useful to hear how you found following the tutorial.

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This means you just want to run the paint into the grooves and edges of the armour and not all over the model. If you make a mistake, simply let it dry and tidy up with some Dawnstone. Highlight the previous stage further with a thinner line of Russ Grey. Base coat the Lightning Bolts on the shoulder pad and shield with Russ Grey. Now we’re going to create a glaze by mixing 70% of Lahmian Medium with 30% of Hashut Copper. Now don’t wash this all over, instead target the areas you specifically want to shade. This quite a subtle step, repeat this step two or three times to increase the intensity of the shading (multiple thin layers will get darker and darker the more you apply). Blood Games by Dan Abnett is a short story set within the Emperor’s Palace and what Custodes do when they’re not fighting.

When I took on Custodes I was happy that the person who I painted them for wanted something other than the classic gold. As much as I love a really nice rich gold colour, I find it pretty overwhelming on the Custodes models. Instead, I went for a striking red-dominated scheme, with darker bronze metallics. The Master of Mankind by Aaron Dembski-Bowden takes place during the Horus Heresy and gives you insight into the Emperor himself (and his finest creations). There’s more to painting the Adeptus Custodes than just spraying your models down with Retributor Armor spray – though that’s certainly an option if you want to save time. We’ll look at several different methods for painting them here. Crab-Stuffed Mushroom’s Method Every one has their own secret sauce for the gold on their Custodes. I wanted to go for a slightly more antiqued look from the usual bright retributor armor color. First, I airbrushed the entire model with Vallejo Game Color Hammered Copper, then did a zenithal highlight of Vallejo Model Air Gold. For those without an airbrush, you could easily paint the model in Hammered Copper and drybrush a gold over top. If you’re working with GW Paints, I’d recommend Screaming Bell or Brass Scorpion, then a drybrush of Liberator Gold or Golden Griffon.Make up a mix 1:1 Baharroth:White and thin it right down to a glaze. I used Vallejo mediums for this, but Lahmian Medium would work just fine. You want it pretty transparent. Softly highlight the middle of the blade in a band across it. If the blade is really long you might want to do one wide band like this and then one thinner one either side. Use strokes running along the angle away from the tip, this helps it look sharp The decision to list these specific paints was made by considering colour theory, specifically in relation to complementary colours and analogous colours. All in all, I’m quite fond of The Army Painter’s washes. They have more body than Citadel Shades, and most of them go on very evenly. They are also quite affordable, which is a plus. Effect Paints For Caracalla, my shield captain here, it is very important to note that I painted the cape separately, and glued it on after I was done. This entire process is a huge pain in the butt otherwise. The head was also painted separately. The Warpaints range features 8 metallic paints. Like most other miniature paint ranges, The Army Painter’s metallics are water-based and non-toxic. The paints require a little bit of shaking, but they don’t separate as badly as some of the Citadel metallic paints. The metallic pigments used are a bit on the grainier side, like most of the cheaper Citadel metallics that don’t come in the white cap bottles.