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Posted 20 hours ago

Tamiya Acrylic Mini X-27 Clear Red

£9.9£99Clearance
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ZTS2023
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The Tamiya stuff needs a lot more thinning than other airbrush paint and being alchohol based needs it's own thinner. I think a big part of my problems is that I am not getting the mixture quite right. The other airbrush paints I use (Vallejo Game Air) can be used straight from the pot, I usually thin them a little to get a better flow but they're a lot more forgiving. Hi just tagged onto this old thread but have restarted airbrushing and have been experimenting the last week or so with Xtracrylix paints, looking for some advice on Tamiya gloss varnish. I think general tamiya paints are thinned 1:1 with paint using tamiya thinners and sprayed at 15psi, that’s worked for me.

TAMIYA Acrylic X27 Gloss Clear Red TAM81027 Plastics Paint TAMIYA Acrylic X27 Gloss Clear Red TAM81027 Plastics Paint

Here is an example with Mr Colour silver and Mr Colour clear colours air brushed but they have clear colours in rattle cans too.This stuff is supposed to be awesome, but it isn't water based paint and I don't know how to deal with it it. Tamiya acrylic paints are made from water-soluble acrylic resins and are excellent for either brush painting or air-brushing. These paints can be used on styrene resins, Styrofoam, wood, plus all of the common model plastics. The paint covers well, flows smoothly, and can be blended easily. Prior to curing, paint can be washed away with plain water. The paint can be also thinned for airbrushing using Tamiya Lacquer Thinner. Using Tamiya Lacquer Thinner will yield faster drying results and a harder finish.

Acrylic Mini X-27 Clear red - TAMIYA

You may also lightly mist a fresh coat of Tamiya Clear with Mr.COLOR LEVELING THINNER prior to applying another coat of Tamiya Clear.I used a straw taped to the nozzle, and just sprayed into a glass vile. Worked relatively well, so I could do that again for translucents, but not sure. For solid/opaque it seemed ok. To sum it up, from a fresh jar, 2 part paint, 1 part water. DO NOT USE X-20A THINNER AS IT DRYS TOO FAST! If you have decades old paint like I do, then you will have to thin it down with thinner, but using water after is important as it allows the paint time to flow to hide the brush marks. Hi MentalGuru, for the longest time, I found Tamiya clear gloss and gloss acrylics difficult to work with. Recently I've found that a 1.5:1 Tamiya thinner to paint ratio works really well. As with everything, a light coat followed by successive wet coats seems to yield fantastic results that look even better once it's levelled and cured for at least 48hrs... Aquaterry wrote:I may have been using it wrong, but I use it a lot for blood, as it has a very nice, glossy look to it. I'll paint the model normally, including the part which will be bloody, and then add the red over that. It doesn't have 100% coverage, so the paint bellow shows through a bit, but that is why I prefer it to other methods. I prefer their Game and Mecha range as they are claimed to resist handling better although I had not tested them properly yet. I used them on Gundams mostly.

Best paint for blood? : r/minipainting - Reddit Best paint for blood? : r/minipainting - Reddit

A community for painting miniatures and models. Everything from tabletop wargames to board games, display pieces or just for fun!When airbrushing make sure to use any of the following Tamiya thinners: 81020, 81030, 81040, 81520, 87077. I find they spray well with Mr. Color thinner. I mix them 50/50 for air brushing. AS far as getting them perfect on transparent parts... not sure how I'd go about that. The Tamiya Mini X-27 Clear Red Acrylic Paints come in 10ml bottles and are water-soluble and non-toxic. They are suitable to paint plastic model kits and come in three finishes, gloss, flat and translucent. The Tamiya Acrylic Paint range can be brushed straight from the tub, or thinned to be used in an airbrush. Thinking of using some of the Tamiya Clear Acrylics (X-27 Red, X-26 Orange, X-24 Yellow) for tail lights instead of decals on the couple of bodies I'm working on. Has anyone had any experience using them in this fashion, or should I attempt using the PS variants (37, 43, 42) - which will require more masking - instead?

Tamiya Metallic, Gloss, Clear Red? - Forum Thousand Sons - Tamiya Metallic, Gloss, Clear Red? - Forum

I think being a bit brighter will probably be a good thing, I really like the bright candy red look that FW have achieved. To achieve a “Candy” appearance you want a metallic base and a clear colour coat. Experiment with base coats such as chrome, high metallic flake silver or gold. I actually find the Tamiya Translucent a to be a nice even finish when brushed on imo. I did my Lego 911 RSR lights with clear yellow and you can hardly notice any brush strokes, it really seemed to flow and hide any brush marks just fine. Not the best photo in the world but I assure you, all the parts that have been gloss coated are very smooth. More recently I did this with Tamiya clear red, added a touch of clear blue and shot it over metallic rose gold ( rose gold depending on the angle can't quite decide if it a light goldish red/pink or silver red/ pink. But the clear red looks awesome over it, or the blue for that matter.Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: I use the FW Clear Red without an airbrush, it's akin to the old GW inks, so water based and can be thinned with Lahmian Medium or specific airbrush thinner if required. I too bought Tamiya X-22 for this exact reason, and all the articles I read where to use Tamiya Laquer Thinners. The laquer thinner produces the best results in thinning Tamiya products for airbrushing, espically the X-22 for this exact reason.

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