Revell 30ml Decal Soft

Product Information

If you are more of a traditionalist, and an array of decals is provided with your model kit, chances are you’ll use them. And for good reason. Decals provide a nice touch of colour, detail, and authenticity to your model, which is especially important for models such as classic planes, or famed Formula 1 racing cars. This type of decal is a little uncommon and should not be confused with water-slide decals or vinyl self-adhesive decals. Wet self-adhesive decals have adhesive on the rear of the decal, which when wet with water, allows the decal to be moved into the correct position before carefully wiping away any access water. This causes the decal adhesive to bond to the model permanently. A small amount of washing up liquid added to the water will help the decal to slide better until you are happy that you have it in the correct position. For any tight curves or areas that the decal needs to conform to that is not flat, you can apply a little heat using a hairdryer set to low (so as not to distort or melt the decal or model part). Once the decal is in place, carefully warm the area with the hairdryer to make the decal soft so that you can push out any creases or bubbles that may have appeared. I use the Microset/Microsol system myself. It's the blue bottle (MICROSET) which should be brushed onto the model. A dilute solution of white vinegar will serve the same purpose of softening the decal film slightly. The red bottle (MICROSOL) is the one that should be applied later and is a stronger solvent. It's one, or several, applications of this which will get that decal snuggled down. Your decal soft is a solution which will soften the decal film allowing the decal to conform more closely to the surface of the model, hopefully to get that painted on look we all want. There is no guarantee that it will prevent silvering. You might be able to mitigate silvering by piercing a decal with a needle or the end of a scalpel blade and flooding it with a decal solution, but again, there is no guarantee. It's far better to get it right initially and that's why I always recommend a gloss coat of your choice. It's only one more step in the process and the final desired finish can be achieved with a final coat of a suitable varnish.

Revell Decal Soft, 30 ml - 3DJake UK

To seal the decal completely, you can now apply a thin layer of varnish or Klear and allow it to dry. While this is often enough to keep the decal in place, if you feel it necessary you can use the second paint brush to apply the second decal solution on top of the decal. This will set it firmly.As always, model making is as much about follow instructions as it is about following your own creativity. Decals are a great way to enhance your model even further, so add them where you see fit and make your model stand out! If you like to weather your decals, now’s the time. Google has plenty of advice on doing this if you’ve not done decal weathering before. Before you apply decals, you’ll need to have your workspace cleared and all the necessary tools on hand. Here is a list of the tools you’ll need:

Is decal soft really worth it? : r/modelmakers - Reddit Is decal soft really worth it? : r/modelmakers - Reddit

Edit @ October 2016: be very careful when soaking up the excess softener as any agitation can cause the decal to warp or break! In the threads I could find on this topic the question of is solvent white vinegar or not came up several times. Now when I smell solvent I don't smell vinegar at all. I DO smell vinegar when I open an old jar of Testors Decal Set, which is used to clean and wet the model surface in preparation for the decal. When I smell both Micro Sol and the Daco product I get a mild Acetone smell. Start off by carefully selecting the decal that you are going to place onto your model. Use a fresh hobby knife blade to cut as close to the artwork/lettering as you possibly can, so there is little or none of the unwanted clear vinyl that the self-adhesive decal is printed on. You can use a pair of scissors to cut out the decal, but you may find that a hobby knife is better suited to the task. The best way I’ve found to solve this is to give the surface a coat of gloss varnish before I apply the miniature. I have a pot of Games Workshop ‘Ard Coat which I only rever use for this purpose: by brushing on a generous amount of varnish to the surface, you will get a nice smooth surface upon which you can apply the decal: all the troughs and peaks will be smoothed out and you won’t have air gaps underneath.

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Second, the blue Microset bottle looks a LOT like the bottle that the Liquid Decal Film comes in. You do not want to splosh this on your model instead of Microset unless you really want to start painting again! Another lesson learnt the hard way! As you come to the end of a scale model build, you often have a few decisions to make – do you go for a polished finish, or a more weathered look? Do you keep the traditional colour scheme, or go for something more artistic and original? And do you use the provided decals, paint your own designs, or keep it clean? Essentially the dreaded silvering, where the decal carrier film becomes visible, is caused by microscopic air bubbles under the decal. There is a much higher likelihood of this occurring on a rough, matt, surface than on a smoother gloss one.

Revell Decal Soft 30ml RV39693 | Cornwall Model Boats Revell Decal Soft 30ml RV39693 | Cornwall Model Boats

Your local hobby shop will probably sell a decal softener such as Revell’s Decal Soft. That’s what I use and it works fine for me.

Model Surface Preparation

Edit @ October 2016: as above, use a spray lacquer. Another gloss coat protects the decal and gives it an even finish which matches the paint underneath.