Spes Outside Tap Kit With Back Plate Elbow and Accessories

Product Information

Next, cut another short length of pipe to run from the isolation valve to a drain valve or drain plug. Fit the drain to the end of the pipe and then insert the other end into the isolation valve. Make sure any compression joints are tight and that you have used PTFE tape. We like to add one of these wherever possible as it allows you to drain down the outside tap pipework. If it’s not possible to install an outside tap, another way to provide a water source would be to install and use a water-butt. This is a great way to capture and store water, no just because rainwater is pretty readily available in the UK, but also because it is free! Depending on the length of pipe you will also need to add some pipe clips to hold it firmly to the wall. Step 8 – Fix Tap In Place and Test Always start with a small drill first to drill a pilot hole as this takes the strain off the drill trying to drill too large a hole in one go and also when it busts through the wall on the other side it doesn’t blow a huge chunk off. Ideally this will be somewhere where there is plenty of space as you will need to get a large drill in there.

Once the guttering is fitted and water is able to fill your water butt you can use a simple tank connector, available for all plumbers merchants, to join more water butts together, giving you more storage. With the pipe cut, unscrew and remove the compression nut and olive from the end of your compression fittings and slip them over each end of the cut pipe, cap first and then olive and then wiggle the fitting body over each end of the pipe. When running a water pipe or indeed any object through a wall you really should run a sleeve through the hole first and then run any pipes or similar through the sleaving. To insatall an outside tap correctly and ensure all works as it should do, you will need the following products and tools:

Seasonal Maintenance for Outside Taps

Choose a place to cut the pipes that has plenty of space around it and a good 100mm or so either side of the pipe so that you can easily get a T-joint in place. The last job to do then is to use a suitable exterior sealant and pump a load of it into the sleeve and around the external hole to seal it up and prevent any draughts or water ingress. Do this on the inside also. The sleeve stops any pressure from the masonry on the actual water pipework to the tap. Expansion and contraction can cause the water pipe to rub across the masonry and over time weaken it to the point is bursts. Step 6 – Connect Pipe Through Wall Insert and fix the pipe into the bend coming through the wall. This will either be into a compression joint or soldered. Once the hole is drilled you can then start fitting the pipework. Cut a short length of pipe to run from the T-joint to an isolation valve. Again, using copper or Pushfit is totally fine, but if you are new to this sort of work then Pushfit is the way to go. Fit the valve to the end of the pipe.

With the new T-joint in place for the pipe branch you can then work out exactly where to drill the hole through the wall to run the pipe through. Once you have chosen your install location the next job is to tee into an existing water supply pipe. This pipe will have to be cut to allow the introduction of the T-joint needed to branch off. There is usually a tangle of waste pipes and hot and cold water feed pipes under the sink which make connection of an outside tap difficult so in many cases it may be easier to look between the units, or even behind them to source a cold water feed to the outside tap which is a little easier to work with. If you need any help identifying a product, please do get in touch with one of our Team Bog and we will be more than happy to help.

Measure the depth of the hole and cut a suitable length piece of 22mm copper pipe so that it is roughly 10mm shorter than the hole depth so that you have a 5mm inset at either end. Position the pipework up to the T-joint so the end is up to the collar and mark a point on the wall for the pipe clip to fit. Mark and drill the fixing hole and then fit the clip to the wall using a screw and wall plug.

The connections are easy to install, as is the installation of gutters and downpipes. In this project on plastic guttering and downpipes you will find information and a video on installing guttering and making joints in downpipes to create a feed for your water butt. If you intend to use a Power Washer, we recommend you don’t use a self cut tee, use one of our Professional Tap kits. Finally, cut another length of pipe so that it runs up to the hole through the wall. It should be around 10 – 15mm short of the hole to allow for a 90° bend to be fitted. A pipe clip also needs to be fitted along this section. As you can see, all of this has been made using copper pipe and copper compression fittings and this is absolutely fine, but if you have never attempted any plumbing before we would suggest that you use Pushfit fittings as they are much easier to work with.

Other Helpful Resources

To prevent any such issues with your new garden tap it’s a good idea to trun the water off at the isolation valve and then drain the water out of the supply pipe through the drain plug.