Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Base Rhinox Hide

Product Information

I used to hate painting gold. No matter what I tried, it always came down to painstakingly applying thin layer after thin layer to build up the opacity and it still wouldn’t look great anyway. Thankfully, metallic paints have come on a long way and Retributor Armour is one of the best of the bunch. It covers remarkably well and gives a bright, yellowish gold that is really versatile. You can, however, decide to go on and add some battle damage to your mini by following these steps: First things first: In this post, we talk only about acrylic mediums used for thinning washes like Citadel Shade paints or diluting ink-like paints like Contrast and Speedpaint. There are also a lot of other acrylic mediums that make your paint more matt, more glossy, more transparent or prolong the drying time, but these are not the point today. Are you interested in other acrylic mediums? Then drop me a comment and I’ll see what I can do in a future post or video. If you’ve followed every step in this guide, your finished miniature should look a little something like this… The scratches and chipping is done by painting an area with Rhinox Hide and then painting Ironbreaker on top. Be sure to leave Rhinox showing around the silver to give the impression of worn paint.

In a lot of cases, airbrush paints are the same as their regular equivalents, just thinner. It means that you can use them with a regular brush, but you’d rarely want to because they’ll be much too thin and the coverage will be poor. However, in some situations these are exactly the properties you’re looking for and it can be useful to have an airbrush paint on hand, even if you have no plans to touch an airbrush. Orruk Flesh, Thondia Brown, and Hobgrot Hide are all part of the Citadel Base line. Base paints are paints with a higher pigmentation and often a slightly lower viscosity, designed to create a fully opaque basecoat with just a few coats. As usual for Citadel paints, they come in 12 ml flip-top pots. Tyranids: The Tyranids are a race of enormous and insatiable alien beings that devour everything in their path. Rhinox Hide would be an excellent tone for painting the Tyranid warriors’ carapaces and exoskeletons, providing a sense of exotic terror to the figurines. It might also be employed to draw attention to the intricate intricacies and designs on their armor, giving them the impression of alien intelligence and might. You’ll need Citadel’s Gryph-hound Orange and some Contrast Medium. Thin the Gryph-hound Orange with a little medium to create a muddy orange colour.That was then highlighted with a mix of purple, brown and grey, to dull out the browns previously washed over them. And for a final highlight I mixed in some ivory into the the last step on the skin. DONE. Really. That’s it. The basing I’ll have to cover another day, but it’s essentially Vallejo Earth Texture sprayed with a green/brown, then had a few pigments mashed on top of it before a heavy coat of pigment fixer. Very very easy and effective basing. The grass tufts are Mininatur Tufts of Desert. I will be doing another article on the Kruleboyz themselves at a later date, but if you’d like to see full video tutorials on the Kruleboyz and more, you can find them on my Patreon.

I’ve painted two coats of Greyseer base paint over a few areas where Speedpaint Medium has been used as a thinner. As you can see in my video, there is only a minor reactivation on the thinned Dark Wood Speedpaint on the left pauldron, no reactivation with the other paints. So the culprit for Speedpaints’ reactivation issue is not the medium, but the dyeing agents used. HairsprayAs long as your varnish has dried (give it about 30 minutes at least), you’re safe to move on to applying a coat of hairspray. Ask your significant other for their cheapest can of hairspray (or go buy the cheapest one you can find), as the cheaper stuff is the most water-soluble. We will be taking advantage of that quality shortly. Before jumping into how I painted the Imperial Fists armour, I think it is important to explain how the paint should be applied. When painting yellow, one of the biggest struggles is to achieve a clean, smooth finish. I really enjoyed painting up this squad box of German mountain troops, so made sure to record my process to create a painting guide for them. These models are great sculpts that are easy to paint and are full of character. What follows is a step by step guide on how I painted mine, broken down into easy to replicate stages. I worked on all 10 models at once in a batch painting process.

Magos Sockbert

http://www.wargamesfoundry.com - also do a range of similar to Citadel paints, will update when can get chance. The final area of weathering is the feet of the Titans. It might seem odd to weather just the feet, but it helps to anchor them to the base. My bases are made to look like a Martian landscape so I use Forge World Aged Rust and Orange Rust to achieve the colours. To keep the scale right for the basing materials, I mix baking powder and matte varnish with red and brown paint to create a paste which I apply all over the base. The exact colours don’t matter as they will be covered in weathering powder. Once the paste is dry I airbrush Aged Rust all over the base, and then using a normal brush I scrub Orange Rust in patches. To airbrush Weathering Powder just mix it with water first. If you don’t have an airbrush you can use a very large brush, but it will be messier.

Now mix your Nurgling Green with an equal amount of Wraithbone and add specular highlights to corners, plus the centre of the previous stages highlights. I shaded the polished metal with my 1:1 Dark Tone [ Nuln Oil] and Nuln Oil Gloss mix, but instead of applying the wash all over, I painted it directly into the recesses. Once dry, I tidied up with Plate Mail Metal [ Ironbreaker].

Fucking It Up Gently – SRM

All in all, it’s a mixed bag. The low viscosity makes Lahmian Medium unique, but I can only put it in the C-tier, especially as there is another product that does everything that Lahmian Medium does but better. More about that later. Contrast Medium review The colour is bright enough to have plenty of pop and the consistency helps it flow into places where water would naturally accumulate and cause rust. Having to gradually build up layers of thin, translucent paint helps avoid going too far, making it very beginner-friendly if you're learning how to paint miniatures.

http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?s=c770bc029dd218be5d17fff14fecefeb&showtopic=17678&st=0&p=266494&#entry266494 The pale skin is a two part process. Like the Hobgrotz, the hero is countershaded but the effect is much more sublte.Overall, Contrast Medium provides a smooth finish and gives very good results no matter what kind of wash or ink you use it for. For me, this makes Contrast the best all-round medium, so I have to put it on S-Tier, which is a bit of a bummer because it’s also the most expensive product, but we have a few more mediums left, so maybe we’ll find a contender​​ who can rival Contrast Medium. The Army Painter Speedpaint Medium review Let’s take a look at each paint, including this handy reference chart with similar existing Citadel Colours, all hand-painted over grey primed plasticard and photographed under a neutral 5500K light source: Once this stage was done, it was time to add weathering to the model. I used Rhinox Hide for most of this process, first adding a more watered-down mix with a brush to some of the deeper recesses of the miniature, then dragging that mix down in areas to create dirty drips.