Hornby R070 00 Gauge Turntable Electric

Product Information

Ignore the DCC Decoder connections to the hut for the R410 TT, this drawing is for a motorised bridge R070 TT and not the manually rotated R410 version. Hi, Rog (RJ) has covered much of your questions regarding the use of the R070 turntable on DCC. But if I can expand: Using the T/T with DCC comes into two categories; You will need to feed the rotating bridge motor from the dc supply using the old dc controller. So locate the two wires that run to the motor and remove them form any If not, what about a 12 volt bulb of some description, like for example what you would find used on a car - side light / stop light / turn indicator light / interior light etc? The special worms are also available....just need a worm puller to remove existing worm....and a method of fitting new worm without damaging the motor....

I used to produce this 'adaptor', initially as a 'service' to model railwayers, but have found it financially unviable. The Square Hole part is the one you would need for a Hand Operated version of theTurntable (Hand Operated versions have not been made for many years now...) is a very nice number when discussing this sort of thing. When a circle is divided into 16 slices, the angle is 22.5 degrees, the same angle seen on a compass. Unfortunately, in the mathematics of the RM layout, there angles are multiples of 45 degrees from the horizontal or vertical. So in the suggested icon above, the new outlets which are at positions NNE, ENE, ESE, SSE, SSW, WSW, WNW, and NNW i.e. the 22.5 degree ones, are converted to fit the RM geometry by connecting to the centre of an adjoining grid cell, making a slight kink as it does so .... I'm tempted to get a R070 Turntable for a Thomas based kiddies layout, which will be controlled via DCC. Failing that, how feasible do you think it would be for me to fit the worm myself, using a mechanic's vice? It looks like it is theoretically possible, but do you think there is too much risk of motor damage - bent shaft, etc.? I would still have to buy a new worm from Peter at the same time as a wormless motor, because my existing worm can't be freed from my current motor. Definitely Plan B.However, this 16 outlet version would be capable of having RM rotate the icon bridge in sync with the real thing, but it would have to "remember" the bridge position between RM sessions. I will see how much noise a new motor makes at reduced voltage once I get one, and assess whether I can live with it. Otherwise I will play with bits of flannelette in carefully selected spots inside (wouldn't want it to get into the gears or motor!). Given the very low duty cycle of the motor, I wouldn't have thought heat build-up would be too much of an issue (but we'll see). In DCC, are the turnouts made live by the roating rail turning to them, or must a separate connection be made?" OK, so here is a photo of the motor I have - needless to say it is totally devoid of any identification.

The Round Hole part is the one that was desighned for the Electric Motor Operated version of theTurntable. (Only Elecric Motor Operated versions have been made for many years now...including the current issue).Kerry, you've now used up your two posts until this time tomorrow. If only you had answered ALL my questions like Q1 & Q4 in the absence of full answers. I shall now have to make some assumptions to fill in the gaps. There was a kit, Turntable Motorising Unit, R.411, which was used to motorise the R.410 Hand-Operated Turntable...