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Beastmaking: A fingers-first approach to becoming a better climber

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Great for forcing you to climb with good tension as its particularly hard to hold a swing on this hold. Although Ned views having strong arms as helpful, he does not see being able to crank out multiple reps of one-arm pull-ups as an essential ability for sending hard grades.

You would be at a loss looking for comparisons between Hörst's "7-53", Eva López MaxHangs, or Steve Bechtel's Ladders. I wanted to make it dead simple, and kind of interesting to look at: colourful, certainly not black and white, with photos in it, so you could just pick it up and flick through it, and hopefully pick something up. Further on, Ned explains how to design your system board training problems and how to structure your sessions.The most useful thing I got from it was about having a back up plan - if your body doesn't feel right one day, scrap the power and endurance session and focus your session on something else instead, it sounds really simple but it's completely shifted my mindset. As a result they are great for burly side pulls and undercuts as well as working body tension and full body squeeze.

Whereas I wanted a book that was for the people who were almost intimidated by training, or who didn’t want to dive into it because it was too big a subject, because they didn’t understand it.Yet, as is so often the case with something simple, there was much confusion how to use this new equipment properly and to its full extent. On a practical note, the size of the book was a pleasant surprise (I was expecting an enormous tome) and the writing is always clear and jargon free, making it very easy to read. Beastmaking will no doubt be on many a bookshelf providing helpful advice to many climbers over the years and is recommended for anyone interesting in even the smallest amount of training for climbing. Ned is also the co-founder and designer of Beastmaker 1000 and Beastmaker 2000, which became what I believe to be the most successful hangboards in history and the most popular ones currently.

As far as Repeaters are concerned, he explains that you may change the hang/rest ratio, the edge size, the number of sets, and potentially add weight.

As a beginner, it had some valuable information, but generally I would recommend this book more to someone who's been climbing for 1-2+ years.

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