Radiator Expansion Water Tank Cap Compatible for Fiesta Focus C-Max Mondeo

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Bit like windscreen wash can buy it concentrated or ready mixed strength depends on environment. Advantage premix you don't have to test it with an antifreeze strength tester. Your car’s heating and cooling systems are important factors in having a comfortable ride all year round, but especially in extremely hot or cold conditions. Car Cooling System Agree with the screw into it, if you used a really sharp self tapper, you might get away without drilling a pilot hole and dropping bits of metal into the tank. I did, however, realise that there are sometimes no bleed points, because I think that's all I've ever had on any of my cars. Can't remember it being a problem before. IIRC, the OP did not tell us the reasons for the water pump replacement, referring only to a coolant leak, but the reservoir blowing was said to follow-on from it,

So much confusion over a simple system! I take it none of you are plumbers or heating engineers? It works exactly the same way as your hot water tank or central heating radiators at home. I have a couple of fridge compressors that I could try, but I'm getting used to the boiling method so I probably won't bother.. Coolant also helps keep your engine working as efficiently as possible, helps keep its emissions low, and even helps provide that toasty heater air on cold days. Hi Freddy42, I know you posted this over 3 years ago so I'm asking this more in hope that you will reply. I am having the same problem you had concerning The gas test on the coolant isn't infallible - the Hyundai dealer spent 18 months doing the test and denying any issue with the head gasket on my Santa Fe and only accepted it had blown after it "blew up" on the motorway and even then couldn't find the exact issue when they took the head off.It will however, also slow your engines warmup times, and if you’ve got any starting difficulties now, perhaps from a bit of coolant getting into the cylinders, they’ll probably get worse. This may be tolerable, at least for the summer. Yes thats why its called an expansion tank! When cold it should be at max level or close too in use it should not go below min level DISCLAIMER: fordownersclub.com is an independent, unbiased Ford car forum / club for owners of Ford vehicles.

IF the water pump is belt driven, I suppose it might be possible to change the pulley to increase the pumping rate, but I doubt it would be worth the trouble.

If the coolant level is low, add the correct coolant to the reservoir (not the radiator itself). You can use diluted coolant by itself or a 50/50 mixture of concentrated coolant and distilled water. IF your mechanic says he has done that test (its a chemical test kit) and you believe him, that seems to be that, unless that kit does false positives, which AFAIK it doesn't.

The reservoir has a fill range marked on the side. If your engine is cold, the coolant level should be up to the cold fill line. Its not really a compression tester as the term is usually used. Its testing for radiator pressurisation, with a FSD of 5 psi, so it'd be more sensitive to damage than a compression test, but perhaps still not sensitive enough.I wouldn't do that, and I probably wouldn't buy the kit they use, but it should be possible to adapt another form of pump. It'll only do that if it leaks coolant into the combustion chamber, or blows its coolant out / overheats during testing. Further to my last post, the bubbling coolant has continued but in all honesty I am not too fussed as long as the car can last me another 3-4 months. My main concern is that if I drive it without the internal fan on to accommodate for some of the extra heat, the temperature of the engine (on the dashboard, at least) begins to very slowly climb above 90 degrees. It remains on 90 if I keep the fan on, but the engine fan creates a hell of a noise (not that it matters if it is working). Now it is getting towards summer I am starting to get fed up of absolutely roasting in my car every time I go to/from work so am looking for an answer, however, given my problems with previous mechanics and the fact that I have already paid out a few hundred pounds on this issue I wanted to ask the advice of you guys before having a paid mechanic come and look again. Heater in a car acts the same as the radiator under the bonnet, which is why when the engine starts overheating its a help to use the heater in the car on max hot to help keep engine cooler If it were mine I would keep a close eye on the coolant. Your engine will only overheat if you loose a significant amount

The OP is unlikely to want to bother with that though, especially as he already has some blowing from the coolant reservoir so couldn’t easily detect any local boiling due to modification. IF you aren''t losing'coolant, I don't quite see what the leak stopper is for. I suppose if an undetectable amount of coolant is passing into the combustion chamber some leak stopper would be drawn in too, but it doesn't seem very likely to seal against combustion pressures.You can sometimes score extra cooling using the aircon fan (I ran my Sierra using the aircon fan only for a while) but I assume if you had one you would already be using it I like the idea of a physical test because I might be able to lash one up, and I doubt I'd be able to get the chemical kit here. Water line is just below min too so I better get it filled (I suspect that when I have been taking it in for it's oil change, they havent been topping up the water as they can't get it off! So I've recently had a coolant leak repaired on my 2008 model Ford fiesta where the mechanic noted that the water pump and thermostat needed replacing. Having had those replaced and my car returned to me, the leak has stopped however the coolant has begun to boil/bubble after driving the ~30 minute journey to/from work (~20 miles each way).