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Posted 20 hours ago

Klein Tools Fox Wedge, Stainless Steel, 4-Inch 7FWSS10025

£30.155£60.31Clearance
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ZTS2023
Joined in 2023
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About this deal

I'm all for saving a bit of effort so Fox Wedging is the right for me. (Let me know your thoughts) Advanced fox wedging The Mortise and Tenons are cut, they fit well. There is another part to the joints to keep them tight over time – WEDGING Tenons can simply be glued. We do it all the time and gluing them lasts just fine. Mostly we rely on clamps to seat shoulder lines and and keep the two parts married until the glue dries. When this has taken place it is unlikely you will ever be able to part the union without damaging one or the other or indeed both. It was and still is for some a marriage made in heaven! Totally glue, animal glue, and nothing else. Two tenons in tandem and 150 years together and still totally united. After cutting the fox wedges I use an angle grinder and flap disc to remove the saw marks, then use a Dronco polishing kit in the grinder to polish the steel until I get a decent finish.

Note: Some say "It's not a Fox Wedge unless it's blind" I stand to be corrected if the consensus goes that way, have your say. Wedging generally relied on clamping for seating the shoulders. Why use wedges? In the early days of screw threads and iron clamps the clamps were expensive and few and far between. Not like today when most woodworkers own a dozen or so. Clamping followed by wedging meant the clamps could be used immediately on the next frames so as soon as the wedges were driven the clamps were removed to be used elsewhere. Wedging a mortise and tenon tightens the joint up. Not just for now but into the future, even as the timber expands and contracts. It might also be useful to have an assistant to hand. If like me there's no one available, console yourself, there's no one to witness the minor panics. You might spot my “moments”even after the careful edits. The next type of wedging was to simply drive wedges into saw kerfs cut into the tenon parallel to the long axis and allow the wedges to create pressure in the width of the joint, compressing the tenon width between the extremes of the mortise.

Fox Wedging

This jig works well on my table saw and would work equally well on a band saw. It uses a wedge to provide fine adjustment of the angle. The stop at other side of the slot gives consistency to the thin end of the wedge. Have a look at the video to see it in action. Gluing up a TIMBER DOOR With fox wedging I don't need the extra process. Thin wedges are driven in to saw cut slots in the tenon. This has a similar effect as regular wedging, i.e. tightening the joint and compressing tenon. Another type is to slope the saw kerfs as cuts which send the tips of the wedges toward the inner reaches of the tenon. Opening up the outer aspect if the mortise creates a dovetailing effect. This is very strong and resists breaking off the outer aspect of the tenon which sometimes happens with the former method above.

The next part covers jointing boards. Then creating deep raised panels using a router table and basic tooling. Blind Fox wedge. The bottom of the blind mortise pushes the wedges in. I'll have to try this some time so I confuddle folks “How does it stay in with no glue?”

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