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Here follows a ranage of plasterboard fixings that, over the years, we have found to be the best and most secure, however none are suitable for lath and plaster, so see our fixing to lathe and plaster project here for more information. Unlike a normal Butt Hinge, the rising butt has two leaves which can be pulled apart by simply pulling one leaf off of the pin on the other leaf. The wrap around feature ensures a fix on the thin edge of the door and frame as well as a face fix allowing 3 fixing points or more on an otherwise weak area. Again, this is a type of butt hinge but it does have a specific usage case so it’s defintely worth a separate mention.
Concealed hinges are generally used where the entire hinge mechanism needs to be hidden so are normally used for fixing kitchen and bathroom cabinet doors. Continuous or Piano Hinge A gauge number for screws in the imperial system corresponds to a certain fraction of an inch in diameter. To figure out the gauge number for a certain diameter, or vice versa, you have to look at a gauge guide to match up the "#" of the gauge with a fraction of an inch. You can find these guides online. There is one hammer in fixing which we use a lot. Its very easy to use, simply hammer in and it will take a fair bit of weight. These hinges are generally fixed between 2 items that then allows the central item to pivot and move and open and close. The principle is simple. A pilot hole of 2 or 3mm is drilled into the board and the Redidrive bottom section is screwed into the hole. This is done without the screw in as the top of the Redidrive casing has a Philips head so it can be driven in using a drill/driver.
It is not absolutely necessary to drill a pilot hole as the casing has a pointed shaft which will make its own hole when pushed and screwed. However if you have managed to choose a spot where there is a timber stud behind, the Redidrive will snap when it hits the timber and leave you with a hole you do not want. Position object in place and screw the supplied screw through and into the wall plug securing it in place. These types of hinge come in a range of different lengths for a variety of different jobs and also different construction materials including steel and brass.
As you may have guessed the spring action built into the hinge pulls it closed when it is opened, ensuring that any door, gate or the similar it’s fitted to always closes after it is opened.This fixing is described as a heavy-duty fixing, but we would say it’s probably not as capable as some of the others listed above. Despite this they are capable of supporting shelving, wall units and the similar. A very strong hinge for doors that do not offer the most secure of fixings. The wrap around hinge is used when there is not too much timber to fix to as in a cabinet or thin cupboard door.
These fixings are very similar to the rubber anchor nut in terms of the way they work. Once pushed through a pre-drilled hole, the centre screw is tightened. As it’s tightened it pulls the end of the fixing forwards, scrunching it up. These fixings are available in different sizes or more accurately the folding wing comes in different lengths. Essentially the longer length the wing is the more it will support, but even the smaller variations are capable of holding quite a bit of weight.The GripIt fixing is a fairly new innovation and is available in 4 different coloured types, each type specific to a certain weight it can support: Measure in mms from where the screw head sits to the tip to get the length. Start measuring from wherever the screw head would rest on the surface when it is fully screwed in. Use a measuring tape or ruler to measure from here to the tip of the screw. [8] X Research source Due to their strength they are capable of supporting very heavy doors, gates and the similar, all the way up to and over 100kg! Different Types of Hinge and How to Use Them
The Tee hinge/T-hinge (or strap hinge as it’s known in the states) is used where surface fixing, over a large area, is the easiest way of fixing a door or entrance trap. This type of hinge spreads the weight of the door over a larger area allowing for greater control and less “hinge drop” because of the weight of the door or gate its supporting. Measure in inches from the tip to where the screw head rests to get the length. Wherever the screw head would rest when it is fully embedded in something is where you start the measurement. Use a ruler or measuring tape to measure from here to the tip of the screw. [1] X Research source When using wall plugs, as a screw is screwed into one it expands and bites into the sides of the hole it’s inserted into holding it in place, but as plasterboard is soft, the expansion of the plug simply widens the hole you have put it into and in no time at all it will work loose and fall out. This fitting is also very strong but, if used on their own, heavy items can tend to "tilt" the actual fixing in its hole and while they will not fall off, can become a little loose after a while, so they are best to use in pairs or more. Although many different types of hinges can be used for gates such as butt hinges, T-hinges and the such but where large, very heavy gates such as timber 5-bar gates need to be hung, to cope with their size and weight a special heavy duty hinge needs to be usedCount the number of threads in 1 inch to get the thread spacing value. Lay the screw next to a ruler or measuring tape and hold it steady. Count the number of threads in the space of an inch to get the thread spacing for screws in the imperial system. [6] X Research source Measure the distance from one thread to the next in mms to get the pitch. Screws use pitch as a measurement in the metric system instead of thread spacing. Use a measuring tape or ruler to measure the distance from one thread to the next in mms to get this final measurement. [10] X Research source
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