Ilford HP5+ 400asa 35mm - 36 exp

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I’ve been shooting HP5+ for a while and found that I prefer it to TriX a lot due to its more muted contrast at box speed. Only shot the kodak one at box speed but I was getting too much of that ‘crazy contrast’, I don’t think hp5 gets there even at 1600 with somewhat aggressive agitation. I develop mine in HC-11, quite practical for pushing the first two stops (only 11 minutes for 1600 with upside down turn agitation every 2 minutes at 20C, although I find my tap water requires longer durations than what’s recommended, so 12:30 for me), about to take a systemic approach to taking it to 3200 for even greater versatility. This film is developed using C-41 chemistry, which is normally used for color films. Also, you can actually shoot it at any speed between ISO 50-800.

Ilford HP5 - A photo comparison by The Kodak Tri-X vs. Ilford HP5 - A photo comparison by The

When you’re using Rodinal large pushes, though, there is a point where it creates too much grain. If you’re underexposing film more than 3 stops, like pushing HP5+ to ISO 6400 (+5 stops) or 12,800 (+6 stops), there comes a point where not enough grains receive proper exposure to make an image, resulting in a huge loss of detail in the shadows of an image. So the developer and fixer will wash away the unexposed grains. This process leaves unexposed holes in between the large grains, causing the negative to appear grainier according to this document written by Kodak scientists about the invention of T-Grain films. Hi! My name is Daniel and I live in Helsinki, Finland. I “rediscovered” film around 1.5 years ago (at the time of writing) and since then, I haven’t shot much in the way of digital – including about a year of having no digital cameras at all. It’s worth noting that Tri-X is a tolerable film. The emulsion can handle pushing the film to higher ISO’s, such as 800, 3200, or an extreme 6400. You’ll have to adjust your camera manually and let us know what ISO you shot it at before we process the roll.High-acutance developers do not have any solvent in them, so they render solid, sharp grains on your film. Rodinal is a classic developer. It’s the oldest film developer that’s still in production. And it has generations of users who sing its praises. If you’re shooting film, you probably want to see some of those grains, anyway. So why not use a developer that can get the most out of your image. To cut a long story short, ILFORD and other film manufacturers no longer needed to hedge their bets with an exposure safety margin and the bottom line was simple. Immediate film speed “increases” across the board. This is a really cool process that works to reduce the negative contrast and increase sharpness by allowing the developer to exhaust itself on the highlights while having more time to interact with and develop the shadows. In fact, if you want an extended dynamic range, my experience is that the best choice is to expose the film at 200 ASA, overexpose your scene by about 1 stop and shorten the development time of 10-15%. for example 7 minutes 30 seconds instead of 8 minutes.

HP5 PLUS HARMAN technology Limited TECHNICAL INFORMATION HP5 PLUS

In 1939, this was replaced by HP2, an ISO 200 offering. This only lasted for two years until being superseded by the imaginatively titled HP3 in 1941, which was rated at different speeds depending on when in its life cycle you bought it. HP5+ and ILFORD developers are products I would recommend for a novice – you can’t go wrong with this stuff! A great comparison to judge the two films on contrast as well as what detail is retained in the shadows & highlights.

Hi SROYON, in your test I couldn't understand some things. I was able to understand the test for whites, but… After beginning my Ilford acquaintanceship with the relatively obscure Pan 400, HP5 Plus was my first foray into the brand’s better-known films.

HARMAN technology Limited TECHNICAL INFORMATION HP5 PLUS HARMAN technology Limited TECHNICAL INFORMATION HP5 PLUS

Nominally rated atISO 400, HP5 PLUSproduces negatives of outstanding sharpness and fine grain under all lighting conditions. It has been formulated to respond well to push-processing and can be rated up to El 3200/36°. Ilford HP5 Plus has been one of the most popular Ilford films for a while. And for good reason – it has medium contrast, a wide exposure latitude, and is perfectly suited for action or documentary style photography. As with any film, the film’s range is squashed somewhat by push processing but even at extreme pushes of 5-6 stops (EI 12800-25600), the film works surprisingly well for a traditional grain emulsion; and provides excellent separation of highlights and mid-tones. Yesterday I exposed two rolls of HP5 + and one roll of Tri-X of an old house, under clear skies and brilliant sunshine. I shot them all at 1/500 sek, running the aperture from f/16 to f/1.4. Developed them together in the same tank in FX-39 1+14 for 9.25 minutes @ 68F/20C. The negatives look very similar. Looking around on the internets, I see all kinds of ‘comparisons’ of these two films by people who have no idea what they are doing. Looking at the negatives through a loupe (Edmund Scientific 6x), I cannot tell them apart. After that first roll I developed many more ILFOSOL 3. At first I always exposed my scenes at box speed – 400ASA but later on I chose to try other approaches.

If you want to get more hands-on, you can also buy it in 100′ bulk rolls. And of course it’s available in 120 format too, although we’re really just talking about the 35mm here. for better exposures in low light would be to over expose and push process one half to one full stop over the speed you shot at (over exposure plus over development) but that’s my preference and yours may differ.“

HP5 PLUS 35mm - Ilford Photo

As with other films that offer the same base with varying ISO levels ( Kodak Portra films are a good example), the higher the ISO number, the lower the contrast and the greater the film grain. Ilford Delta 100: Ilford does not list any grain size or image resolution measurements for HP5+ though I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s identical to Tri-X’s RMS 17. I’m unfortunately none the wiser for choosing my film. I think all I really took away was that Pan F at ISO 50 is stellar for zero grain for landscape photography in bright light, and that XP2 Super can be processed using a colour process = cheaper. I’d love to see a table of info – film types down the left side, and columns for things like: grain; contrast; lighting conditions; ability to push/pull in post-processing; and special notes. Unless you’re trying out a certain film type for a specific reason, the less you can spend on rolls for your street photography where the results are going to be more hit and miss than studio work, obviously the better. Microphen is designed to give you a really flat (or grey) negative, which allows you to edit in the contrast however you’d like when printing or scanning the photos. That feature is what we measure when suggesting a developer for pushing — and in Microphen’s case, it might even be the very best developer on the market for pushing film!It would be very easy to lift a sentence straight from the horse’s mouth, reword as if we were an e-commerce retailer, and use that to answer that subheading. Something like the following: I’m not sure what’s to be done about this “problem”, or even if it’s a product of my own imagination. At the very least, trying to dispel a few myths is a good place to start. And let’s not forget that ISO 400 rating gives you plenty of speed to shoot in the potentially ever-changing lighting conditions out in the street too. To me, film is superior in every aspect – its tones, grain, and the way it renders in general. I hear that digital sensors are overcoming film in every way these days but have personally found this to be untrue. HP5 is the most versatile film on the market. It can be shot in nearly any situation and still come away with mind-blowing negatives. Some other ISO 400 films, like Tri-X, get too contrasty at higher ISO values, but HP5 underexposes extremely well. In fact, Anchell and Troop’s The Film Developing Cookbook — a long-standing bible for film and printmakers — suggests that HP5 is the best film on the market for pushing to ISO 1600 and 3200.