Minwax .50 Pint Semi Gloss Polycrylic Protective Finishes 24444

Product Information

My son built me a dining table with old heart pine that my dad had stored in a barn. It is beautiful, but I am not sure how to finish it. I do not want to stain it, but seal and protect the natural beauty. Please advise me on my next steps and products you would use. Seems that Minwax is fully compatible with artist oils, and to be sure of my color (after 'force drying' the test piece with a blow dryer) a little clear varnish was applied over to get the sheen of the pre-finished flooring - and the color would be 'flat' without the top coat of varnish. It looked good, so I went ahead and treated all the bull-nose needed. One day later I applied the clear Varnish (Varathane clear - a different brand name, but also compatible with Minwax) and the next day was able to go ahead doing the landing into our sunken family room ... We can't tell that anything was matched, it looks that good. Krylon Clear Coatings are perfect for any surface, hands-on or hands-off. Beautiful adhesion on more surfaces than any aerosol paint. Durable anti-chipping clear coat protects paintings finished with wet-on-wet techniques. Use with K01303 Tinting Base or Mixing Primer to create custom paints.

When it comes to durability, oil-based polyurethane is better than water-based. In particular, in cases where intense heat is experienced. The oil-based polyurethane will display the fullness of the wood, but it can also cause a yellow tint to appear. Therefore, while it is not the best for adding aesthetic qualities, it is a really good option for protecting your woodwork pieces for light and moisture damage, and to keep the paint underneath intact for a much longer time than without the finish. It does dry very fast because it comes out in a thin layer, but applying a very even layer, especially without getting air pressure marks, can be a bit difficult. If you have a small surface to cover, polycrylic will work just fine. For a large surface, you will probably want to try polyurethane.

While a higher temperature will decrease the drying time, don’t turn on all your heaters. Polyurethane is very flammable and an artificial heat source poses a fire hazard. Use a water-based polyurethane Consider how large it is, how often it will be used, and how much time you have to work on it. To get the best results, carve out some uninterrupted time to ensure you get the finish you really want. Additional Tips for Working With Polycrylic When you apply polycrylic, you will need to apply thin coats and be mindful of drips. Its consistency is a lot thinner than polyurethane so drips and beading are more of an issue.

No, wiping is not appropriate. Once the first layer has been applied, sand with 220-grit to 320-grit paper. Use the same grit sandpaper between layers. The polycrylic dries fast, so you can easily do many coats during a single day. The polycrylic topcoat is designed for unfinished solid wood floors only. It offers great value for money due to its sub-floor protection, water-repelling properties, high gloss and durability.I bagged my last DL-50 with 2oz. glass and epoxy resin. Fibre-glas was never meant to be used with anything other than Polyester or epoxy. If you can, set your thermostat for at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Or, work in early fall or late spring to reach the ideal temperatures. Humidity So, while you do have to work fast to apply even and good looking layers of it, it does dry fast, which many views as a bonus.