Professional Rust Proofing/Wax Injection Gun for Underseal & Waxoyl etc WS1

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I also had the real benefit that SWMBO was out so I had since 3.00pm been shoving the 2 gallon cans into the sink with near boiling water. I should have known things were going to go “slightly wrong” when I started. If you really want to protect and get Waxoyl to do what it's supposed to do, then (as I do with all of my cars) pay for a professional steam clean of the underside and professional Underbody Seal with a pressurised delivery system. Then Waxoyl on top of that yourself with a tin of Waxoyl and a manual hand sprayer every year. During summer is best, then it's protected for winter. I decided to use a Waxoil gun and my compressor, I had the propane burner on in the workshop since 3.00pm flat out and it was like the sahara, in fact it was so hot I decided a T-shirt and shorts was the dress code. So i'll be spraying the whole underside, under the arches/wings, behind the valances, in the seatbelt bolt holes, under the scuttle (if i can get access to that), round the door hinges and behind the doors. Anywhere else i should do?

Removing dripping clothes I entered house in “minimal Clothes” to resolve fuse prob, when Lights went on I saw the cat… This is easy to do and costs next to nothing. The oil doesn't solidify so its self repairing, and highly penetrative. It most certainly works, I've used it for years. Yes, it kills existing rust. Yes, it stops new rust forming. It's particularly good for inside doors and box sections.Before I waxoyled inside the chassis members I set the compressor to maximum and sprayed out any dust and crap. It was all quite clean in here, otherwise I would have had to power wash it and wait weeks for it to dry. Now theres hardly any rust on the body just a bit on the rear valance, so my primary concern is to get it thoughrally protected so i dont have to start doing expencive resto jobs on it in the near future. Waxoyl should help stop water getting in to connectors and terminals, causing corrosion. I also put some on the battery terminals and the main chassis ground connection. some air in at 50psi, you should get a nice circular spary of waxoyl out of the nozzle, increase pressure and if you are getting a real lopsided spray pattern take the nozzle apart and

when it's done fill the pot, but make sure the emulsion holes[little holes you drilled in the tube] are in air, bolt the top on[bit of paper will do as gasket] connect the blow gun up and squirt Winter is not when waxoyl should be applied, but I had no choice. I did my best to get everything dry and warm before applying the waxoyl. I put 2 floodlights and one blow heater under the van 30 minutes prior to waxoyling and kept these on under van throughout. I've got away with it...."all done"...I've got away with it...."think I'll have a beer"...I've got away with it....I've got away with it...."Would you like a glass of wine ?"....I've got away with it....yippee....I've got away with it....and True story that has been on the LR forums for a few years... anyone who's had dripping Waxoyl in the face while DIYing the job will appreciate this...Nowadays though theres better things available, Dinitrol is good, I used this in my Capri and so far had no rust at all in all treated areas. But I now use Bilt Hamber Dynax s50, it is superb stuff, and again ive not had any rust in treated areas. Grabbing some white spirit to further thin the waxoil I entered the kitchen and unscrewed the waxoil lid. hour later cat was scrubbed and very peed off with me, I’ve had 2 baths, and also cleaned the bath it seems that the bath will not be rusty...scrubbed kitchen floor, sink, worktop I have a custom built pressure washer of enormous power which can blast off the rust. See this clip: Best yo re-apply it once every few years to make sure all the stone chips and scuffs are covered and sealed.