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Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Contrast Guilliman Flesh (18ml), 9918996002306

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Contrast paints really benefit from a smooth primer (as do washes, as you can see). I also applied Guilliman Flesh over Wraithbone base paint. As a lot of layers were needed for perfect coverage, the finish wasn’t as smooth as with Wraithbone spray primer. You can see the Guilliman Flesh dried more uneven because of that. Sealing the surface with a coat of satin varnish might help to reduce this effect. With those things in mind, rather than presenting a specific recipe for a specific skin tone, I want to give you a tool-kit that will give you the footing to experiment and play around on your own to achieve a variety of effects and interesting skin colors. What’s in Cadian Fleshtone anyways? I say lighter skin tones because with darker skin, it tends to work better to start with the brown color. If you start with brown and highlight up by mixing in Cadian Fleshtone, you’ll get a nice light-ish warm brown tone. You can also use white to mix in as a highlight. I would not recommend using red or yellow alone as highlights. Red is a strong color and will make things red if used alone, and not much yellow works its way into highlights because most ambient light has a cold, whitish hue, which we’ll go into more detail on later.

Thin your paints. No, more than that. Consider investing in some thinner medium and glaze medium (I use Vallejo) to stop your paint splitting when you thin it down enough for skin work Citadel Contrast paints are therefore the most expensive miniature paint on the market – by far! The Army Painter and Vallejo paints cost less than half per ml. http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?s=c770bc029dd218be5d17fff14fecefeb&showtopic=17678&st=0&p=266494&#entry266494With the assembly and painting complete, I now had my 1,000 points Fyreslayers Warcry warband ready to go. Contrary to what many pots of paint would have you believe, there is no single “skin tone”. The reason for this is because human skin is a complex, multilayered structure and derives its colour as a sum of its components, much of which is constantly in flux in life. Skin is translucent and “skin colour” is largely a combination of the colours present within the skin – the pigment melanin, red of blood and yellow of fat. If you have had the misfortune of seeing a corpse, then you can observe the sallow cast that develops – the loss of blood from the skin on death leads to a loss of ‘red’, leaving the melanin and fat behind.

I think the only time you would really be able to totally obviously tell if a different primer was used under a Contrast color would be if you painted like a large vehicle or dragon model where large surfaces of the model were all the same color. T’au Empire – The T’au are an advanced and technologically sophisticated race that emphasizes ranged firepower and mobility. Their battlesuits and vehicles are often adorned with bright colors, and the pale blue-green skin of the T’au Fire Caste contrasts well with the warm tones of Guilliman Flesh. http://www.ttfxmedia.com/vallejo/cgi-bin/_modelis_info.asp?p1=ing&p2=modelcolor&p3=1#modelcolorinfo I've had contrast colours work just fine on corax white and as far as I know the primers of other companies are already smoother that gw's cw, which is where that issue comes from. Would you say the difference between wraithbone and vallejo desert tan is big/clearly noticeable when the colours are applied (in terms of color tone). Vallejo desert tan seems to be a lot more yellow, however if the difference to that one is noticable but not that big I might be tempted to try some of the bone white or off white alternatives. With GW's current situation it might be months until I get my hands on a new can of wraithbone spray...

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http://www.wargamesfoundry.com - also do a range of similar to Citadel paints, will update when can get chance. However, the GW Mechanicus Standard Grey, the Testors Gray and the Rustoleum/Krylon gray primers are quite a bit darker. They are kind of rogues on this list. I wouldn't use them as first choices to use with the Contrasts. Put it this way. The Contrasts weren't TECHNICALLY designed to be put over a gray that dark, but to a certain point you can use gray and it will work. But there's a cutoff point. The three I have on the list are about as dark as you can go with a gray primer and still have the Contrasts actually still be able to be show up on them. Anything darker and it would probably cancel out many if not most of the Contrast colors in the range. http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/media/e588d28183cec31ffd6dcee6d3718fc3.cms/equivalencias-rev05.pdf

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