Compression 40mm Waste Pipe 90 Degree Bend

Product Information

Compression fittings consist of three parts: a nut, a ring and a seat. When the compression fitting gets tightened, it provides a watertight connection. Helping you find the right compression fitting Despite the above minor disadvantages, push fit plastic compression wastes do have many advantages that can be seen below: Compression waste adjustable bend taking two pipes of the same size (32 or 40mm) round from a straight line up to 90 degrees. Again, invaluable in a conversion or renovation situation A flexible fitting which will allow to you connect a 32 or 40mm pipe round a wide bend to another sized pipe

Tapered Rubber Seal: This is pretty much the core part of the system – the tapered part of the seal pushes into the gap against the main compression body which also pushes in on the pipe holding it firmly in place and creating a seal between the pipe and the compression unit body preventing any leaks Waste pipes used for push fit fittings and solvent weld fittings are two entirely different sizes and one of the easiest ways to join the two is by using compression fittings Now comes the rubber seal. Again, make sure that the taper is pointing in the right direction so that it slots into the main body of the compression joint. Ensure that it is not twisted and that it sits flat on the body of the pipe Normally, these situations are encountered during DIY and home improvement works, especially when converting older properties that may still be using imperial sized plumbing pipes and fittings and any new work will be done using modern metric. At this point, position the pipe so that the top cutting jaw is directly over the mark on the pipe, or just to the side if you have marked the cut point exactly on the line.

Helping you find the right compression fitting

A compression straight coupling, joining two pipes of the same size in a straight line. 32mm and 40mm One other really invaluable use for plastic compression plumbing fittings is when you are refurbishing and trying to join old pipes to new pipes including old lead wastes (which should be replaced if you get the chance) and odd sized imperial waste plumbing pipework, they are absolutely ideal for this The T-joint comes in a range of different sizes and fittings, both 32mm and 40mm, imperial and also reduction. Most commonly used when teeing into an existing pipe run As mentioned, the advantages with the shear-type cutters is that they leave no burrs so the pipe is ready to fit straight away. Assembling a Plastic Waste Compression Unit Plastic Washer: Once the below screw cap is screwed up it applies pressure to the washer which in turn presses down on the rubber seal, holding it in place and ensuring it seals

Squeeze the handles again and let the cutting jaw bite into the pipe. Make sure before you do this that the cut is in the correct point. Assembly of the unit is pretty straight forward. If you have several sections of pipe to put together it’s best to get it together on a bench or open space if you can, then insert it into it’s final resting place in one piece and slot together the final sections. Assembly is as follows: An important point to mention is that if you do tighten it too much this can damage the rubber seal or push it past the point of creating a good seal and leaks will start. In this case you will need to take it all apart and replace the seal if you can find an exact match or replace with a new compression unit if not. How to Cut Plastic Pipes for Compression FittingsAs above, measure and mark the position on the pipe that you want to cut, mark your point with a soft pen. Compression waste conversion bend. This bend allows you to change direction and convert from 40mm pipework to 32mm pipework and vice-versa Screw Cap: The final piece of the puzzle, this holds everything in place and ensures that the rubber seal provides a complete seal between the pipe and the main body Open up the shears to their full width and place the pipe on the base of the jaws. It does help to rest the cutters on bench or stable surface to support them and the pipe. Our Irish compression fittings are made of brass bodies and olives. These are for use with Irish copper pipes.

Compression fittings are made mostly to use with 32mm or 40mm pipe work or to provide a conversion between two different sizes e.g. joining a 32mm pipe to a 40mm pipe. Continue pumping the handles until the jaws close and cut all the way through the pipe and you’re done! Flexible waste straight coupling allowing you to join two pipes from 38mm to 45mm and absolutely ideal in a conversion or renovation situation. This fitting is also available to convert from 30mm to 38mm and can be bought as a flexible bend from 40mm to 48mm Our lead fittings collection includes brass compression coupling for joining lead pipes to copper tubes. The fittings in this range are not suitable for gas use.Whether you need DZR fittings for commercial or residential construction, our collection includes adaptors, couplers, elbows, connectors, tees and stop ends designed for use in applications that deliver water consumption.

Tighten until the screw cap goes tight and then give it one final pinch and all should be fine. If you do find it leaks, simply screw up a little tighter. Similar to our imperial fittings range, our selection of metric fittings includes elbows, olives, straight couplers, and tees to be used on LPG. For those that are new to plumbing, compression fittings provide the ideal introduction as they are easy to fit and adjust In most situations, you don’t need to screw the cap up too tight for it to provide enough pressure to create a seal. They are designed to be done up using hand pressure only so no grips or pliers are needed.If a connection breaks down and fails, they are easy to remove and refit with a new one whereas with solvent welded fittings you have to start cutting pipes which can get complicated Screw down the cap. Take your time while doing this and keep your eye on the seal and washer making sure they do not twist and that all is flush with the main body and pipe. Screw up until it starts to go tight and then give it one final pinch to create your water tight seal