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Games Workshop Citadel Layer: Karak Stone

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Optional) Paint the armor with Satin Varnish to give it a nice sheen (pure gloss varnish is too shiny)! I’m aiming for a degree of realism with this model, and that goes for the skeletons too. To achieve this, I needed to think about how a body might look if it had been strung up and left in the elements until only the bones remained. That meant looking at a lot of reference images of ancient mummies, desiccated corpses and other such unpleasant things. The final look achieved using the process set out in this tutorial is the culmination of that macabre research. You can, however, decide to go on and add some battle damage to your mini by following these steps.

At this point, the marine is finished and you can base it however you like. If you want to see how to get started with making a realistic Ice Base, See my Ice Basing Tutorial.

TheChirurgeon’s Method

Mix a little :white scar in with the previous paint and make tiny highlights on the most extreme points. Obtain Army Painter Strong Tone (this is a citadel Agrax Earthshade equiv). Apply it. Apply it ALL. Seriously look: I airbrush Citadel Mephiston Red as a highlight. You can do this with a brush but this is why you buy an airbrush because it’s so much simpler with one.

During the late Hellenistic Period, Al-Karak became an important town taking its name from the Aramaic word for town, Kharkha ( כרכא). [3]

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Next, do exactly the same thing with Seraphim Sepia and Athonian Camoshade, thinning them down in the same way and applying each to approximately 20% of the stone surface. Try to avoid layering two different washes over the same area, but if they blend together a little around the edges that’s fine. Some areas should have no wash applied at all, leaving the original stone colour showing through. Wait for the washes to dry and that’s it! You’re done! For my herdstone I plan to take things a step further by adding moss and lichen, but that’s a subject for another tutorial. http://www.ttfxmedia.com/vallejo/cgi-bin/_modelis_info.asp?p1=ing&p2=modelcolor&p3=1#modelcolorinfo For Caracalla, my shield captain here, it is very important to note that I painted the cape separately, and glued it on after I was done. This entire process is a huge pain in the butt otherwise. The head was also painted separately. Mix in a little more Tallarn Sand and layer up again, concentrating on raised areas where light would hit Emelda is my second favorite hero in the box, and probably the most “heroic” looking of the bunch. I went for a classically heroic color scheme based on the old Grey Knights schemes I remember reading about in White Dwarfs of years past.

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