Garage Consumer Unit IP65 4 Way Fuse Box Fitted with RCD 63amp 30ma + 1X6amp, 2X20amp & 1X32amp mcbs

Product Information

Once the old one is out of the way, the new one is fixed in place. Step 2 – Add Main Double Pole Isolation Switch and RCD If this isn’t done then it can lead to all manner of issues when reconnecting and testing the circuits, so it’s best for both your electrician and also you to know if there are issues before any work is started. You have done, the electrical appliances now can be connected to the new wired consumer unit and its MCB’s via three wires i.e. Brown as Live “L”, Blue as Neutral “N” and Protective Earth “E” as Green with Yellow Stripe.

To do away with any potential issues such as these, the older fuse wires have been replaced by their modern equivalent, the MCB or miniature circuit breaker. The author will not be liable for any losses, injuries, or damages from the display or use of this information or if you try any circuit in wrong format. So please! Be careful because it’s all about electricity and electricity is too dangerous. Since its introduction, the consumer unit has now become the product of choice for distributing electricity around your home due to it’s simple layout and relatively straight forward setup (if you’re an electrician and know what you’re doing obviously).Obviously, when a consumer unit is being installed the power to your entire house is isolated so that everything can be connected up and tested before it put live for use! When the 17th Edition Wiring Regulations were introduced in 2008, it stated that all circuits should be protected against earth leakage and to ensure this is the case, the split load consumer unit was introduced.

How much work I am happy for them to do, for example if they show me the kitchen they fitted themselves perfectly or the immaculate library shelving they did I would consider them capable of running the conduits and boxes in the log cabin if they wished and the cables therein.Always, use the right size cable and wire, proper size outlets and switch and suitable size of circuit breakers. You may also use the Wire and Cable size calculator to find the right gauge size. The third and final circuit(s) basically sit next to the main switch and are comprised of individual RCBO’s that provide all the protection for the circuit they are supplying. These circuits are considered highly important and as they are individually protected and outside of the RCD circuits, won’t trip with the other circuits protected under them. Once the incoming live is connected using a bus bar for each MCB, the next job is to connect each circuit to it’s relevant MCB.

Once the first MCB is connected up, the others are connected in the same way, ensuring that each is connected to the correct size of MCB for the item(s) it’s powering. In general, 18th edition consumer unit requirements state all electrical circuits must be protected from: Now, mount all the three MCB’s (6A, 16A and 32A respectively) and 2-poles RCD (63A) in the built-in din rail in the garage CU. One final point – If you still have an old style fuse box as opposed to a consumer unit, then this almost certainly won’t be compliant with the latest wiring and electrical regulations so you should think about getting it changed for a much safer modern consumer unit as soon as you can. The Consumer Unit – What is it? Below are some photos of the house. I'm aiming to drill through where the X is in the first photo, and run the cables along the external wall and into the garage (photos 2 and 3 show this). Questions are:Will anything I'm doing need to meet certain regulations? It'll obviously need to be inspected and signed off but I'm mainly thinking about the 2m distance of cable, as I've seen similar posts where all sorts of numbers are being thrown around about distance vs regulations.

The 18th edition consumer unit requirements supersede 17th edition wiring regulations. So, if you haven’t installed a new consumer unit for a while, here’s a summary of the changes: If this is a new consumer unit install for an existing property then your electrician will have either marked each circuit to identify what it powers or will work each one out as he gets to it. I had two electricians visit my property for quotes. After a bit of discussion they eluded to the fact I could to the ground work - essentially lay the cable / and drill the holes and then they can do the final connections and then test it to certify it. If, as stated by Coloumb, this isn't the case (thanks for the comment) then I'll be paying someone to do it and I have obviously been incorrectly informed our maybe misheard what was said to me. Read carefully all the cautions and instructions and follow them strictly while doing this tutorial or any other work in practical related to electrical works. Once all the testing has been completed the next job is to isolate the power to the existing fuse/circuit board and then remove it.

First of all, switch off the main switch or related MCB breaker in the main distribution board or consumer unit and make sure the main supply is turned off.