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Posted 20 hours ago

Hollow Knight Maske Wyrm Quirrel Game Funny Toy Helmet Resin Maske Halloween Party Cosplay Maske

£9.9£99Clearance
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This belt is used to tie together all the oddities and references, and it's rather simple. I used the image of a template I found online as a guide (No there was not a printable version it is literally just the image I worked off of). To make sure the nail doesn't collapse in on itself during proper use, I filled the inside with expanding foam. This kept the inside rigid and helped the gluing process afterwards. Just don't overfill the nail, expanding foam has its name for a reason. It can take over an hour for it to reach its maximum size. You may have realised that the print already has a texture. But if you are like me and had a bunch of print errors or have holes in your print or not all the parts line up correctly then you can add an extra layer of texture. And I recommend doing this even if your print came out flawless because of how simple it is to apply extra texture. Beneath the fading town of Dirtmouth sleeps a vast, ancient kingdom. Many are drawn beneath the surface, searching for riches, or glory, or answers to old secrets.” Hollow Knight is an indie 2D side-scrolling game that was released in 2017 by Team Cherry. Layer Line: 0.2-0.08mm (It fluctuates depending on the detail, how long you are willing to wait, and the amount of support you want to use. Typically 0.2mm if its low detail and little support like the chest plate and 0.08mm if it's detail is marginally higher but you don't want tons of supports)

Make sure to delete one half then save the file as an stl. Once you have saved you can hit ctrl + z to restore the half you deleted. Then just delete the half you saved and save the other half. All my models can be found from the thingiverse link below. They contain all the Armor, The Helmet, Monomon the Teacher's mask, + some accessories. (I also have the files for the Lumifly lantern in there it's not necessary and I don't go over how I made it because I scrapped the idea but uploaded the model anyways) Before making the belt I recommend making your own paper template to the rough shape of the one seen in the first image, before making any cuts. This way you'll know the belt fits and the shape won't be wildly off of what you want. Once you have your template I recommend folding the fabric in half and using only half your template, this way you'll get symmetrical cuts and the whole thing will be a consistent size. After the belt has been cut I took a strip of the fur from the leftover fur I had from the cape and glued it in a thin line around the entirety of the belt. (Makes it look more warriorish).The mothwing cloak is the item I got the most use out of in the game so I thought I'd pay it some justice. The cape overall is very simple just some cloth, fur and hot glue (Because I can't sew). Finally we begin the actual prop making of the project! The Nail is the first part of the project I built and is the origin of my spiral into madness. It is the sword that the Hollow Knight uses thought the game and it progressively gets upgraded throughout. I thought this model would look really good and the realistic damage that the model has really helped the vibe of the overall costume that I had no idea I was about to make Assembly is rather simple as you just need to hot glue each part to the others. There's no tabs or really any room to do this so you need to put hot glue on the thin lines in between each part and then hold the two pieces together until the hot glue dries. Once the glue is dry you can apply a liberal amount of hot glue on the inner seam to ensure the parts stay together. Do this for all parts of the helmet. You may have more or less parts depending on how big/small you made your parts to fit on your printer. As for gluing I used hot glue on the bottom of the inside of each chunk so that it was touching only the expanding foam to keep the sword together and then used super glue around the seams to reinforce the bond and make sure that the sword wouldn't break if the expanding foam ripped. Also since I printed the tip at 0% infill and expanding foam struggled to fit inside I applied a liberal amount of superglue on the tip to prevent it from breaking.

Fold the bottom and inner edges of your cape inward and sew them down. This will keep them from fraying and give your cape a “finished” look, however, if you would like a more raw look to your cape, you can leave your edges as they are. I chose to sew down my inner edges, but since I cut a leaf-like pattern out of the bottom, I left the bottom raw. I will also mention in this step that you should 3D print out the stamp for the "wax seal" It's a very simple file with no supports and minimal detail needed. Printing is a rather simple process just very time consuming. You need (2x) middle parts for each finger (1x) the pinkie and (0x) for the thumb, You need (5x) finger tips one for each finger, you'll also need a main hand part, and a thumb cover part, and then multiply that all by 2 because you'll need a set for each hand. Just use 20% infill and 0.2 layer height. It's not about quality but quantity with each piece. I'd try and fit maybe 5-6 pieces on your build plate per print so it will take multiple prints to fit everything. But once it's all printed you can rip off any supports and move to fitting.

Grey Non See-Though Fabric (This is used for the cape so get a 2m piece. I'm 6' 6" and that was enough to reach the floor for me)

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