Nutella Chocolate Spread, Hazelnut, for Pancakes, Porridge, Muffins and Party Food, Unique Recipe, Smooth Texture and an Unmistakable Taste, 2 x 950g Jar

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Potential banana skin … while this looks nice enough, it’s marked down for the poshness of the bread, and should really be paired with tea. Photograph: Vsevolod Belousov/Alamy The smooth brand has encountered bumps in the road. But, since 2015, criticism of Nutella’s use of palm oil has largely subsided after the then French environment minister, Ségolène Royal, was forced into an embarrassing public apology. Royal had called for a Nutella boycott but, among others, Greenpeace leapt to Ferrero’s defence, stating that it is leading the way in terms of sustainability, transparency and regulation of palm oil production. Ferrero (which says it uses just 0.3% of global palm oil each year) was the best-rated manufacturer on the 2020 WWF Palm Oil Scorecard. No. The end. Never. And don’t come at HTE with obscure Italian dessert pizza traditions, as if that justifies anything. This is not a matter of authenticity, it is a matter of common sense. When

Serving suggestion … also, ignore what the label says about not storing Nutella in the fridge. Photograph: MASP Food Photography/Alamy

Nutella - Aktuelni cene iz kataloga

With the exception of the Guardian’s own Felicity Cloake – a heretic who recommends making your own – Nutella is seemingly irresistible to humans and animals alike. Not bad for a creation whose origins lie, twice over, in war, privation and improvisation. Napoleonic trade bans restricted cocoa’s availability in 19th-century Piedmont, inspiring the first gianduja or gianduiotto blends with local hazelnuts. In similar circumstances after the second world war, the Ferrero family created its own cocoa and hazelnut mix which, in 1964, became the easily spreadable SuperCrema version of Nutella which – recipe tweaks aside – we know today. That has an unmistakable, unappealing 1970s feel. Dipping fruit into softened Nutella brings two great things together and ruins both. Although it is not as leftfield as serving chocolate spread on a charcuterie board to pair with the cheese. Or adding it to a grilled cheese sandwich.

Served straight from the spoon? Then likely every time you walk into the kitchen. You have been warned. Otherwise, Nutella works any time – breakfast (toast); dinner (banana sandwich); tea (ice-cream) – you feel that Covid-19/late-stage capitalism/life is squeezing your skull to the extent that you need a momentary lift, a boost, a jolt of pleasure to remind you you are alive. Drink Bafflingly rich, sweet, stodgy foods. The addition of Nutella, even more so than whipped cream, compounds this problem. “Galumphing, maximalist cooking that makes you long for delicacy, refinement and finesse,” says HTE, the column that eats Nutella straight from the jar.