Generique - Stoplight costume for adults

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After that, we sprayed painted the whole thing white as a base coat, then sprayed painted it yellow. There are several different options when it comes to LEDs for the traffic light costume. They don't need to be overly bright, like a real traffic light - you're most likely going to be using this costume at night, and within close proximity of other people, and you don't want to overwhelm them! Draw a rectangle in the front to denote the TV screen. Use pastel colors to paint the busy signal screen. To program the bootloader, you'll need an AVR programmer. This can be a USBasp, ISP, or even another Arduino. The Optiboot bootloader comes with the Arduino IDE, and I used AVRdudess (the GUI version of AVRdude) to program it. First, select your programmer, and then hit the 'Detect' button. If your PCB is working, it should successfully detect the 328P micrcontroller. The battery I chose had a capacity of 5500mAh. To figure out a rough estimate of battery life, take the capacity of the battery, in mAh, and divide by the average LED current. For example, on the lowest brightness setting, my LEDs consumed an average of 50mA. 5500mAh / 50ma = ~110h. Thats a long time! At the highest brightness setting - 350mAh, it would last about 15h. Either way, it would certainly last the night.

Decorate the white chart paper using the sketch pens. You can draw the ISRO logo and the Indian flag. Lens: The lens is covers the LEDs, and adds color when the LEDs are both on and off. The Lenses are printed with a transparent filament, which adds a diffusion effect, and takes away some of the hard glare of the LEDs. In conjunction with the tube and base, when glues, provides a water resistant seal. Any momentary button will do for the controls. You may, however, find some have better or worse switch characteristics. Some buttons may 'bounce', and will activate functions more than once, even if the button was only pressed once. This is easily fixed in software by increasing the "debounce delay". When programming the bootloader, you'll need to set the appropriate fuses. There are links to a fuse calculator in AVRdudess, but if you are using my PCB design with a 16MHz oscillator, these fuse settings should work:The getBrightness function reads the value of the potentiometer. The potentiometer uses a potential divider to put a variable voltage on an analog pin of the ATMega328P. This value is then converted to a brightness value. Since potVal is a float (meaning it had a fractional value), it needs to be converted to a non-fractional value. This is done using the (unit8_t).

Glue the cap to the tube. Use lots of glue, and one at a time. The cap and tube need to be pressed together while the glue dries. For this, I used some speaker wire and wrapped it around tight. Now I’m not the most crafty or DIY person, but inspired from this post, I actually was able to make my son a working, traffic light Halloween costume. It was very easy and required few supplies – my kind of homemade costume!

Robot

TRAFFIC LIGHT HALLOWEEN COSTUME MATERIALS: Some of the few materials needed to make your own Traffic Light Costume There are footprints for two 1206 SMD leds - one on the main board, and one on the controls board. I chose not to populate the one on the main board, as it would be hidden when wearing the costume. The LED on the controls board is meant to be bright enough to show through the shirt. A 220 Ohm current limiting resistor should be sufficiently bright.

Next I took three tap lights, added batteries and painted the white light part red, yellow or green. I let that dry overnight. From Flora I wired the ground, 3.3v, and D6 pads to the neopixel's ground, 5v, and data in pads respectively. Then I loaded the "striptest" arduino sketch (in the IDE: Files > Examples > Adafruit NeoPixel > strandtest). I changed the number of pixels in the "strip" object from 60 to 16, but otherwise left the code as-is. I uploaded it to the Flora and the neopixel ran the code just fine. Much excitement here. We tried it under the battery power, too -- that was fine. All this was a direct circuit from the Flora to the neopixel, without a resistor or capacitor as the guide recommends for higher voltages. I used the BUK98150 N-channel MOSFET. It is rated 55V, 5.5A, and has a 2V nominal gate threshold voltage. The PCB footprint provides extra exposed copper for added thermal dissapation, and should be flooded with solder. Cut out a rectangular shape from the white paper for the flag. Paint it to make the Indian tricolor. access to a 3D printer. Alternatively, you can make the parts with cardboard, paint, and other things easily found about the houseTo power the traffic light costume, I chose to use a common USB battery for mobile phones. They provide the 5V for the microcontroller, high current for the LEDs, and an easy means of recharging. This eliminates need for dedicated battery charging circuitry, a boost converter for the 5V, and to handle potentially dangerous Li-ion cells. When the traffic light costume is at its lowest brightness, it consumes too little current for the battery to stay on. To remedy this, I built a small circuit that periodically draws about 130mA of current from the battery. For about 2ms, once every 500ms, the microcontroller turns on a 2n2222 NPN transistor. A 39Ohm resistor in series with the transistor limits the current to 130mA, and a 82Ohm resistor in series with the base limits the microcontroller current. The ATMega328P can also be found on the compact Arduino Mini, and eliminates having to deal with the oscillator. Note, however, that the Arduino Mini needs a serial to USB adapter to be programmed. For most fancy dress competitions, children usually get dressed as leaders or popular personalities. They even dress up as doctors, police officers, astronauts and various mythological characters. But what if you and your child need unique fancy dress ideas? Here's some help. Four alkaline AA batteries (in series, for a combined voltage of ~6V), could power the traffic light costume for about 5.5 to 40 hours for a 2000mAh battery. However, as the batteries are used, the voltage drops, and the LEDs will get dimmer. The advantage is that alkaline batteries are readily available. Also, they are much safer than Li-ion cells.

Another idea, using the SPI or serial port, would be to add wireless communication. With two or more shirts, the light could be synced together. The nRF24L01+, an ultra low power, ISM-band wireless transceiver, would be perfect for this application, and have almost no impact on battery life. Now, join the horizontal sides of the chart paper together using the cellophane tape. This will now look like a tubular structure. This code is for the 'manual' mode. All it does it wait for a button is pressed. When a button is pressed, it activates a color LED, and deactivates the others.This code defines options. The #define DEBUG activates debug code, and will output to the Serial port. This is useful if you are having problems. The #define BATSA activates the USB battery stay alive functionality. To disable any of these, put double slashes "//" in front.