SHIMANO Special grease for pawl-type Freehub bodies 50 g,White

Product Information

Additionally, the lighter lubricants will assist in reduced rotating friction. As you might have already noticed, the DT Swiss freehubs are not the best free-spinning rear wheels, so they can always use a little help. One thing that you will notice is how much quieter they will be. Some prefer the louder freehubs to the quieter ones. I prefer the stealth mode. BTW if a) and the oil runs out brown, then there is already corrosion inside the freehub body and you need to use the best lubricant you can find (best meaning with the most corrosion inhibitors in it). Not all freehubs are alike so you basically have the classic Campa pawls and ratchet system, DT Swiss' is pretty unique, Mavic, Extralite use a synthetic material (Delrin, I think it is) close to or going partly into the hub's shell. No doubt there are other variations on the theme out there. One or both of the ratchet rings can slip in and out on the freehub on splines machined into their outer edges, which mesh with teeth in the freehub and/or hub body. Internal hub grease. This is with calcium hydroxide 5-10%, white solid lubricants 2-3.5%, & 2.5-4.1% bentonite, other additives and mineral oil. This grease is calcium-based for wash-resistance, and temperatures are not high.

Unfortunately it's not very clear which grease and additives is best, because bicycles are different from lots of other applications in that speeds are quite low, and temperatures not too high. Durability is likely to be important. You’re also throwing the ratchet away every time you change a freewheel, but keeping it when you change the cassette on a freehub system. Freehub standardsThis is a question that a lot of riders struggle with to get right, I think. It depends on many things — although every ride is probably too soon for most people (unless it follows a degrease and scrub session first). And that’s not entirely necessary either unless you like your bikes to be showroom quality at all times. Most rear hubs allow the freehub body to be removed. The body can then be flushed with solvent for cleaning, dried, lubricated with oil, and then reinstalled. Much of the process is similar to a hub overhaul. To service the freehub, begin by removing rear cogs.

If a) then your seals are no longer working and you need to use a semi-fluid grease to lubricate the freehub, preferably with corrosion inhibitors in it. However, the teeth will need to be smaller, as will the pawls, so some brands use pawls with multiple teeth to spread the loads, or they offset the pawls in a multi-phase configuration so that not all pawls engage simultaneously, thereby reducing the angle of engagement.Now we’ve had a look at the internals of the freehub, let’s turn to the outside of the freehub – the part on which your cassette mounts. There are some applications where you should only use the approved grease and using the wrong grease really will cause a problem. This includes roller brake grease. This is critical to use the exact grease specified, and unsafe to substitute anything else. Bottomline is to first look at what the manufacturer recommends and try to understand why they do so. Then look at how you clean your bike and how that is affecting the lubrication of the freehub system. Oh god. The things I’ve seen. First of all, do not spray ANYTHING on your disc rotors or calipers. I’m worried the world isn’t ready for disc brakes. Or bike shops aren’t doing their job educating consumers. Something is wrong here, that is for sure. I will also say I think road cyclists tend to be less concerned about maintenance things than mountain bike riders, maybe because the road bikes are a bit less dynamic so it’s not something many road cyclists obsess over in the way some MTB riders do, and the bikes have less tunable functionality in general. Most people just get on a road bike and go, at best maybe they pump their tires up every time to a specific pressure but even that is a long shot for most road riders.