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Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Base Screamer Pink

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This bonded pair of Squigs found their way into my home when I got a box of Zarbaj’s Jitz with my Adepticon swag bag last year. The two have been inseparable since I adopted them, only leaving each other’s side to maul whatever poor fool decided to get too close to their territory. My paintscheme for Zarbaj and his Jitz involves a lot of purple and yellow, so I forewent the typical reds and oranges you see Squigs come in, and went instead for a pinkish purple. I think it’s pretty fashionable.

Basecoat of Warpstone Glow Wash of Agrax Earthshade Touch up large surfaces and ridges/details with additional layers of Warpstone Glow until they reach a smooth and bright appearance Edge highlight with a 4/1 mix of Warpstone Glow and Wraithbone. This gives the highlights a bit of a muted color tone, but it looks pretty decent on the table. You could certainly opt to highlight with a brighter green such as Moot Green or its equivalent Perform touchups of Agrax in areas that may have caught some paint or need to be darkened Salamanders Lieutenant. Credit: PierreTheMime The SkinUse 3:2 gold:copper and mix them together on your palette. It’s super easy to measure as these paints come out of the bottles in equal droplets. Next, apply some Micro Sol over the transfer. This solvent will embed the transfer on the model and ensure it doesn’t come off. Once that’s done and dry, you will want to apply another gloss coat over the transfer. Lizzie: Easily one of the most vibrant of the green tones, this really draws attention to a miniature. I’ve used this to create some bright warp flame, and Nighthaunt magic.

Well these were neat to get to paint! I’ve done a couple boxes worth of the old resin version of this kit and this is the logical progression of those models. They have gotten modernized proportions and their details have been rationalized into what looks good without having too much going on. You can use this technique on owls from Games Workshop too. I switched the basecoats out for Zandri Dust but otherwise it’s the same process. Owl. Credit: Lupe The eye lenses follow the typical style for doing lenses and have a reasonably simple set of colours too. I start with khorne red as the base, then add a single layer each of wazdakka, wild rider, fire dragon and flash gitz working towards the brightest point. Sometimes on a bigger lense I will add a transition mix between each colour but you can get away without that on a surprising number of things. Next up for the reflection I use a simple white to draw it in, its worth mentioning that I use the same basic recipe for screens and targeting laser just replacing the white reflection with flash gitz! A vivid alternative to Aethermatic Blue, this acts as a partner to Pylar Glacier, giving you even more choices in the blue range of the spectrum.

Cloth: Citadel Screamer Pink basecoat, Druchii Violet Wash, Mephiston Red layer, Wild Rider Red edge highlight. For their carapaces I used Karandras Green and applied Doomfire Magenta to their fleshier parts, while claws were painted with Blood Angels Red and the visible brain-like parts had Frostheart applied to them. I went old school on the basing and used a layer of Armageddon Dust which was then painted over with Warboss Green , washed in Biel-Tan Green and drybrushed with Niblet Green. Charlie: Custom Splinter Fleet For this next step, we are using an x-small Series D drybrush, as we only want to focus on one particular area of the model: the kneepad we painted red earlier. Sitting next to Volupus Pink, but even richer, this colour comes close to the intensity of Screamer Pink, but with the unique flow of contrast.

The bottom edges of the muscles were thinly lined with Stonewall Grey for a bounce reflection/ environmental light. My bases on smaller models is typically fairly basic, just wash and drybrush over a texture paint before cleaning up the rims and throwing on tufts from Gamers’ Grass. Any regular paintbrushes with sharp tips for painting base layers. (In the Video Fauxhammer uses an Artis Opus Series S #3 for everything except the finest details where a Series M #0 is used) To begin with, we’re going to use Pro Acryl’s Shadow Flesh to highlight all the leather areas on the figure.

Blue

My aim with this project was to mimic the box art but not try to go full Heavy Metal on the thing. Be’lakor himself ended up taking about fourteen hours to complete, and the base another nine. This is a great model, full of interesting details. The chainmail and skulls on the tabard are cool as hell, and the whole thing is hanging on rings through his flesh. I could see spending another twenty hours polishing it up into a really nice display or competition piece. Paints Used My paint collection has a variety of brands. Each have their own attributes and I recommend using whatever gives you results you like. Anything here is could be swapped for any paint that looks close to the color. Vallejo For the gold areas, we mixed Vallejo’s Gold and Copper colours together to make a warmer gold than the original shade. (This range of metals is so easy to apply but these are the only 2 colours in the range which aren’t silvers) How do you like my take on painting Nighthaunt? Have you found anything useful in this tutorial for your own projects? Let us know in the comments! Guilliman Blue in the runic design (as this color is no longer available, you could make a custom glaze using a 2:1 mix of Lahmian Medium and any blue)

I took a good look at the model to locate the recesses where the zenithal highlight overpowered the purple basecoat. I thinned TAP D&D Purple Worm [ Kakophoni Purple] with water and a bit of Contrast Medium and built up additional purple shadows in several thin glazes. Then I applied TAP Purple Ink [ Druchii Violet] thinned with a little bit of Contrast Medium directly where I wanted to further darken the shadows, usually in the deepest folds and to separate the various layers of the cloak. There’s a certain train of thought that it’s easier to paint models like Thousand Sons and Chaos Space Marines with lots of trim if you prime them the color of the trim, then fill in the armor colors later. This idea has particular weight if you’re going to be painting the armor a flat color, and aren’t liable to hit the trim and require a lot of clean-up. After you’re satisfied with the covering of your red shade, you’ll need an orange for the finer highlight. For this, we use Pro Acryl’s Orange.

Paint Comparison Chart

The steel was done with a base coat of Citadel Leadbelcher, an all-over layer of Nuln Oil, then a final edge highlight of Vallejo Game Color Silver. Step 4: Stipple Citadel Screaming Skull over Ushabti Bone/Zandri Dust, again less dots than the Ushabti Bone layer and focused more along upward facing surfaces. In our How to Paint Everything series we look at how to paint well, everything, talking about different assembly methods, techniques, and colors used. In today’s How to Paint Everything, we’re covering a Warhammer 40,000 and Age of Sigmar double threat: Be’lakor, the first Daemon Prince, as painted by Daniel “Skails” Rodenberg.

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