Yonico 14705 1/2-Inch Height with 6 Bearings Rabbet Router Bit & Bearing Set 1/2-Inch Shank

Product Information

Molding bits integrate various edge-forming profiles to serve a single purpose: make molding. Molding is an incredible way to reinvent a room, and making your own moldings affords the ultimate control over your home’s finishing touches. While several other types of router bits (like the cove and roman ogee) are capable of making edge cuts for molding, molding bits save time and generate superior results. With one of these bits in your possession, the sky’s the limit: Crown molding, baseboard, and window frames can all be manufactured from a single set. There are several style options available, from classical to contemporary, to master any home remodel project. The Whiteside multi rabbeting router bit set provides 8 different bearings and therefore 8 different cutting depths, including flush trim. The set includes 2 bushings for the 2 larger bearings and a hex key wrench too. Due to this if the profiles are cut the same then essentially a rounded off joint will fit into a cove-cut joint. Very similar to a chamfer cutting bit, the rounding over router bit is generally used to round off sharp and acute edges to leave a nice smooth and rounded one. What I actually did as a test was to make multiple passes across the table saw blade at a height I thought was right for the extra 6mm or so... this didn't leave something as neat as I wanted and I needed to clean up with a chisel. Next time (this weekend) I'll probably try the 2 cuts on the table saw method.

The majority of router bits that feature a bearing normally also include bearings of different sizes with the bit or in the kit. As the bearing follows the object your are working on, the size of bearing dictates the depth of the cut, so for a different depth of cut you can simply change the bearing for a different size. There are several different parts that make up a router bit and understanding each of these and what they do is integral to they’re use. The main router bit parts to note are the shank, the body, the cutting edge and if it has one the bearing guide.

But it’s just a rabbet!” my students sometimes complain. Why overthink it? After all, most folks follow the standard protocol: on the tablesaw with a dado head buried in a sacrificial fence. However, the first approach is not necessarily the best. While there’s no doubt the tablesaw works, there are factors that might encourage an alternative method. The key question is, what matters more: what’s removed, or what remains? Two ways to cut a rabbet To be fair, I've only really used my router for putting nice edges on right-angled pieces of wood, plus my latest attempt at a rabbet. What I would like to do, though, is (realising that I must bite the bullet for building some jig / sled type thing) build myself a crosscut sled so I bought some 18mm plywood last night, and some wood for the runners and some for the fences... I do my work in the garden so if the weather holds out I'll give a crosscut sled for the Bosch GTS 10 J a go later today...

The rabbeting cutter is a very versatile router bit which can be used to cut a variety of different wood joints. The cutting depth (c/d) of the bit can be varied by changing out the ball bearing guide for different size bearings. Actually with a side fence and, say, a 20mm 2-flute straight cutter you could do straight rebate - the thing is you'd need to do it in incremental depth passes of 1 to 3mm (assuming in MDF or ply). This is at best tedious, but depending on the base you have in the router it may prove very difficult to get two cuts of the same depth.Become an UNLIMITED member and get it all: searchable online archive of every issue, how-to videos, Complete Illustrated Guide to Woodworking digital series, print magazine, e-newsletter, and more. The worst base for this sort of work is actually the standard fixed base, which has a very small footprint and only takes Makita's own guide bush (which is 9.5 or 10mm from memory, AFAIK no other sizes available). It isn't difficult to make a larger (more stable) sub base from acrylic plastic (Perspex, Lucite, etc) or polycarbonate (Lexan, etc), in any shape you like, such as an egg shape with an offset handle. A better base for your purposes is the plunge base, which can be set up to allow repeatable depth cuts. It is more stable, too, because it has a bigger footprint than the fixed base, and has the advantage of being able to take Porter-Cable guide bushes when used with a commonly available adaptor. That gives you the ability to do template routing with a selection of guide bushes. The plunge base can also be used with the same micro adjustable side fence that is sold for the Makita RP1110 router (and is compatible with other fences from Bosch and DW) Cove bits produce a concave quarter-circle that’s essentially the inverse profile of the rounding-over shape. As opposed to the rounding-over, the quarter-circle of the cove is an indentation in, instead of an easing of, the 45-degree edge. It’s used for decorative purposes on the edges of window seals, stools, and tables, and can also be used to make moldings. Along with decoration, it can also be used with a complementary rounding-over bit to make adjoining edges for a rule joint—a popular technique for making a folding leaf for a table. Cove bits are available in 5/16-inch and 3/16-inch radiuses.