Joined in 2023 
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All the modes are easy to get to and navigate with the single button. It only takes a minute to get the hang of it, unlike many competitors.
IP66 "equivalent" leaves something to be desired. The washing machine is a bit of a torture test for it, but seeing that it is so small it's not hard to imagine that this scenario happens all the time so it would be nice if it was more waterproof. Red Lantern (20 lumen, 2hrs)- A bit on the bright side, not too bright if everyone is awake, but if you share a tent it could wake your partner. 2x Red Blink Modes - Slow blink, Fast blink. Sometimes I used these modes when running on a busy street. UV Lantern (3hrs) - Interesting novelty, maybe you can find a cool bug or spot a fake ID with it, not too useful for me. High looks about the same, and steps down in the same way. The stepdown happens later here, so High actually ends up with a higher output rating at 30s, than Turbo.
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My review copy has Nichia 219c, which is a high CRI variant. I’m very pleased this is an option both because I’d prefer the high CRI (90+) and also I think XP-G3 is just really, really bad. So I have Nichia, and I think you’ll be happier with it too. All of the Aurora series (except for the A4 pro) use a TIR lens. Like most TIR lenses, there is a defined hotspot with a light spill. The hotspot has some small tint variation throughout, which is pretty normal. The transition to spill has some slight variation in the form of rings as well – I’d describe them but I’m not good with colors. That’s different from the original too, which had a much bigger and fairly prouder switch. I have no complaints about the upgrade, except I wish they’d thrown a metal (or at least hard) switch cover on there. Needs a 50-30 lumen mode for main LED. 15 lumens is plenty most of the time, but when you want just a little more then you have to go all the way up to 260 which is kinda absurd. ANSI FL1 standards: The runtime is measured until the light drops to 10% of its initial output (30 seconds after turning on). This does not mean that the flashlight is not usable anymore. The last column shows how long the light actually works till it shuts off. If there is a + symbol, it means that the test was stopped at that particular point, but the light was actually still running. This happens on certain occasions, with certain drivers, firmware, or batteries. Peak beam intensity and beam distance measurements
I compare everything to the Killzone 219b BLF-348 because it’s inexpensive and has the best tint! Conclusion What I like Lux was measured by a UNI-T UT383 BT at 5 meters. Lumens were measured in a homemade lumen tube using a TSL2591 sensor, calibrated with a Maukka calibration light. The temperature was monitored with a MLX90614 IR temperature sensor. I would have really liked a Moonlight shortcut.Other than that, I can live with this for a keychain lightThe runtime for high and medium follow. Output doesn’t hit the claim when considered to FL1 standards, but at initial output the specs are met. (Also the modes are labeled “Turbo” and “High” below, but I think it’s clear what’s going on.) Overall, my measurements are pretty close to what Rovyvon says they should be… if you follow the ANSI rating which measures the output at 30 seconds. But I think Rovyvon usually states turn-on values, and I seem to be reading higher than that. Perhaps Rovyvon got a really nice batch of Nichias, or maybe my sensor really liked the High CRI light.Like other Rovyvon lights, in High and Medium mode, output starts dropping immediately as soon as you turn the light on. RovyVon A5 battery life: runtime graphs Mode So… yeah, it’s definitely cold white. But at least the tint is neutral and the DUV actually registered as negative (slightly pinkish) though nearly perfectly on the BBL.
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