Skywatcher Heritage130P FlexTube Dobsonian Telescope Black

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I own a Heritage 130p and also a 150pl (the same OTA as the Skyliner - but on an EQ mount rather than a Dobsonian) I used the supplied eyepieces for a while, I have only added in dribs and drabs. I usually wait for offers or second hand to buy a good eyepiece but cheaper then full price. This straightforward guide should help you comfortably set up and begin using the Sky-Watcher Heritage 130P for stargazing and exploring the night sky: now of course my son wants to take pictures to share them with his friends so we have been experimenting with cameras. our goals are ( for the moment ) rather modest, take pictures of the moon, and possibly an image where saturn rings are visible.

The maximum exit pupil/ field of view eyepiece. This is a 32mm Plössl or a 24mm SWA. It might be the Televue 32mm Plössl or any other brand and the 24mm Panoptic, 24mm ES68 or 24mm Hyperion. I stayed with ES here, it was the most cost effective for me. Enjoy extended objects in similar fashion with a very potent monocular. First, it is highly recommended to make a light shroud for it. I made mine with Kydex http://www.astrovox....ad.php?id=22584 on a different note, i found a tip on a YT video about a thing to accurate focus, is basically a front cover with two holes We also measure the Power with our systems which is essentially the error from the reference sphere to the test optic. The reference sphere we use on our system is a very high quality sphere so the closer to zero the Power, the less error between the 2 elements thus ensuring a higher quality optical surface. For the record though, the Heritage 130P performs pretty well on planets. Jupiter's Great Red Spot, the Cassini Division in Saturn's rings and detail on the Martian surface are all well within its grasp. Given that space is also a consideration I'd recommend it unconditionally. If you really want to spend some more money on it, maybe get a couple of better eyepieces than the ones that it comes with (which are not terrible, but not exactly great either). Celestron Ex-Cel LXs or the BST Starguiders are good for the price.Well, I've had this a few months, and despite it being summer and viewing opportunities fairly limited I think I'm finally in a position to write a review of my first telescope. Unlike the FlexTube scopes, the upper frame is not really a tube so much as a ring with the focuser/finder/secondary attached, which is more like an ultralight premium Dobsonian. Having a single ring makes the telescope more prone to flexure – we suggest not using any heavy eyepieces or a Barlow lens on the 130P as they may cause the focuser to sag, affecting collimation and potentially damaging the scope over time.

I suggest that you avoid short focal length Plössls if short eye relief bothers you, as this is one of the worst designs in this respect; even orthoscopics are better. If you're unsure about what focal length to use for planets, maybe you should consider buying an inexpensive 8-24mm zoom eyepiece (make sure that it has an indicator for the current effective focal length) and using that for a while. Then you could sell it when you have a more definite idea of what you want, or keep it if you find it to be of adequate quality and useful for filling in the magnification gaps between your dedicated eyepieces. I spend a lot of time surfing the internet over the past few month (more or less intensive) and almost made a choice to suit my needs. To start with, I absolutely want a Dobson! I'm impressed by the design and the view quality you get with an entry-level Dobson. All telescopes are advertised according to their aperture and focal-ratio. You simply divide the telescope's focal-length by its aperture. A 150mm f/5 has a focal-length of 750mm... Besides the 130 mm Newt, I also have the 150 mm Orion Starblast 6 as well, but it's not gotten any use (or the 25mm & 10mm Plossls that came with it) since I bought it over two years ago. A 150mm f/5 Newtonian is actually the closest you can get to an all-around telescope; a 130mm f/6 refractor is the other.

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The one 20mm eyepiece results in two different powers, and with two different focal-lengths. With the 150mm f/8(right), the image will be larger and somewhat dimmer. Also, a smaller area of the sky is seen as a result. With the 150mm f/5(left), the image is a bit smaller, brighter, and a larger area of the sky is seen... With that in mind, I found it best not to tighten that particular screw when retracting the vanes. Realistically, you shouldn’t need to tighten both as one seems to be sufficient to hold the vanes in place. Your telescopes have very close focal length, f/4.7 & f/5. So you are going to use the same eyepieces providing the same exit pupil but different magnification and FOV. Don't expect great planetary magnifications with the Heritage but you'll enjoy the galaxy, open clusters (Beehive, Pleiads, double in Perseus) and extended nebulas (Veil and North America with UHC or OIII filter), and the great Andromeda Galaxy. The telescope is more powerful than many short refractors such as 80 and 102ST or 66 and 80 ED, although it costs less than the semiapochronatics.