Fine Surface Primer L - Light Gray 180ml Spray Can

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Just make sure you use them outdoors or in a well-ventilated environment to prevent inhaling the fumes. Also, be sure to wear a facemask when priming, even outdoors. How many coats do you need to paint with Tamiya primer There is a slight texture to the paint, you can see it where the light is hitting the shell in the pic below.

I'm not an expert on hard bodies by any means, but Tamiya paints do like to be warm before spraying. So, this is how I do it - bear in mind I don't go for concourse finishes, just something acceptably tidy that won't flake off first time it touches a piece of cardboard. Tamiya Fine surface primer is an incredibly smooth primer. But, what makes it stand out is its appeal to more professional hobbyists. Cure time is about 2 hours for flat paint, gloss I usually let it sit 5-6 hours as I use a wet coat at the end. I tend to push the dry times to the limits so take your time. This service does not deliver on a Saturday or Sunday. If you would like Saturday delivery please call us on 01782 409310. I'll also experiment with some scrap lexan and Tamiya polycarbonate paints. Carson Modelsport sells small bottles of Methoxypropanol under the name "Lexan Paint Killer", which did good results on my lexan M-03 Mini bodyshell before. If all goes well, this stuff has the potential to remove Tamiya paint and primer from both lexan and polystyrene bodyshells easily, without damaging or clouding the plastic itself.

MR. PRIMER SURFACER 1000

How to remove Tamiya paint / How to clean brushes: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=75942&p=582620 Then I just threw all the small parts right into the 23ml jar, closed the lid firmly and shook the jar for about half a minute. Right before my eyes, I could see how the Methoxypropanol dissolved the primer with ease. I opened the jar, poured the content into box with the large main hull parts, took out the small parts and dryed them with a paper towel. I closed the box again with the large parts only and leftover liquid inside. I used a brush to apply the Methoxypropanol to primed and halfway painted parts. Then I left them in a closed tupper box for 15 minutes, and did the same procedure again. I can already see the primer and paint going thinner and even breaking down in some places on the large parts, mainly where the oven cleaner prep did it's job. Looks like this will work good, but needs some experimenting in applying to see how to get the best results on large parts. Prime, I used to use Tamiya spray but now uses Mr Surfacer. This is even more important as RC cars are treated more harshly than static models. I used to use Tamiya spray primers but now due to logistics and cost, uses Mr Surfacer. I use Vallejo's Model Color water-based acrylics on figures. But I also use Andrea water-based acrylics, and craft-store brands like Apple Barrel, Americana, and Folk Art.

Definitely use a primer. I don't think I've ever painted a TS paint without a primer, but I doubt the results would be very good. I also use Tamiya's Fine Surface Primer in gray and light gray (almost white), and their rattle-can products, the AS line of airplane colors, and the TS line of general colors for plastic models. Step 0: Wear gloves and eye protection. Open the window for good ventilation EDIT: GO OUTSIDE OF YOUR HOUSE. SERIOUSLY. That stuff isn't reeking as nasty as Tamiya X20A paint thinner, but well... But I'm already struggling with the white primer. I never used a white primer before. I currently use Matt white primer (Army Painter) with a paint brush. I already painted 8 layers of white over the clone troopers and you can still see the Grey shining through. I don't buy sets; I'll mix colors as necessary. And Vallejo's sets are a little too expensive for my taste. I understand the appeal of a set for a particular subject, though; it eliminates guesswork.

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I don't use primer unless the plastic color is significantly different from the paint I want to use.. like if going from red molding to white, or painting 2 completely different colored panels a same color, I would use primer. For me I mainly use flat TS paint so the dry time is significantly shorter than gloss paints. I only wait 2 min between coats, do all the sanding #1500 as needed between coats and re-spray. For gloss I give it a couple more minutes between coats, and finish with a wet coat for high gloss. I do not use glossy clear coat. I build tons of static models and used quite a few cans of TS (and AS) and also live in the UK and had sprayed in the shed right through winter, even when it snows. If you have a Gunpla kit, the thin mist they provide ensures that you get finely coated layers that preserves all the small details like the rivet and panel lines on your model. Tamiya primers are non-acrylic primer bases. When used with acrylic paints, the primer and paint end up melting together.

If like me, you’ve painted a lot of 1/285 scale tanks, you know it’s easy to obscure detail at that scale by priming. One of the many reasons hobby painters use Tamiya primers over other brand models is the final finish the primer yields. Hey guys, so sprayed up the Grasshopper 2 shell with primer and top coats of TC paint. It went pretty well and the cardboard spray booth worked quite well, but I'm glad I covered up my motorcycle with a couple of old sheets - thanks for the advice on the 'dust' @alvinlwh, I would've been gutted if this had got damaged...If you are painting a runner body, you will probably discover it is not worth the time as it will get chipped, scratched, etc... Best to get a spare body for display and one for running. (note, this is my personal opinion after seeing how a painted Lunchbox turned out)