Creality Official “Sprite” Extruder Pro-Kit, Suitable for Ender 3/3 Pro/ 3 V2/ 3 Max/ 3 S1, Satisfy Near-end Printing and High-temperature Printing

Product Information

Does the PTFE go all the way down to the nozzle like the ender s1 sprite extruder. How can you claim 300° hotend when the PTFE touches the nozzle? They are powered by a stepper motor, similar to the ones that move the print head in the X, Y and Z direction. You’ll often see E as shorthand to refer to the extruder’s stepper motor.

Creality Sprite Pro Extruder - 3DJake UK

If your printer has this extruder, we highly recommend upgrading to one of these superior extruders: Technically yes but it would require a lot of wiring and customised mount to make it compatible. The Sprite Extruder Pro Upgrade Kit would be better because it comes with the input ribbon cable which splits into JST connections but I believe it would still need a printed mount. It would also need a firmware modification and possibly also modifications to the x-endstop. If you tighten it too much, it will deform the filament and the flow rate will suffer. You need to find a good balance between idler tension and filament grip. In the images below you can see how big the filament deformation can be if the idler tensioning screw is too tight.

To test the extrusion performance of the Creality Sprite Extruder Pro, I printed this awesome Tazmanian Devil from reddadsteve on Printables. I used a range of PLA filaments with various layer heights, from 0.12mm to 0.2mm. Is this compatible with any board or only ones created by Creality? I would like to hook it up to a BTT octopus 1.1 When this file completes “printing”, which should be instant, the e-steps value will be set and saved to the printer’s memory. You can remove the esteps.gcode file from the microSD card. Doesn't by default fit on all Enders. Might need to switch out some bolts on gantry to flatter ones so it can utilize the entire X axis. Had this problem with my Ender 3 Max.

Sprite Pro Extruder - 3DJake UK Creality Sprite Pro Extruder - 3DJake UK

First, let’s talk about the hotend part. In the case of the Sprite Pro Extruder, the heat break is made from titanium and it’s all metal. The heatsink is made from aluminum and it’s cooled by the tiny radial fan on the side. Honestly, this design is pretty smart and I found that it works quite well during operation. Thermal shots are available below, to also judge the thermal efficiency of this solution. Before we begin, we need to install the web interface for our Klipper setup. I recommend installing MainsailOS because it is actively developed and it’s easy to use, but you can also install Fluidd. Ps: It sounds like your main issue is the fact that it won’t home in the right place. This is simply your cr touch’s x and y offsets. If you can change those, that would fix the issue you seem to be having right now.

High-temperature hot end ( ≤ 300 °C)

When it comes to how well these extruders are built, they are quite similar. The main difference between Sprite Pro and the regular Sprite extruder is the body of the extruder and the heat break. I assume this will require a firmware upgrade for the ender 3 max. If so, where can I get the firmware. I thought that i`m doing something wrong and so i have already printed from 80%-110% flow everything but nothing from them looks good. Creality’s first entry into direct drive extruders was the use of an E3D Titan extruder on the CR-10 V3. This extruder uses a fairly large motor (the same 40mm motor used on the previous Bowden extruders), and is therefore heavier than newer extruder models like the Sprite, which we’ll cover next. The printers that use this extruder all have dual Z axis motors, which does help mitigate the extra weight. Choose the Ender 3V2 without a CR Touch and get through the setup so I can hope there is the ability to tell the Sonic Pad (or Klipper) that I have the Sprite Pro and CR Touch

Sprite Pro Extruder - 3DJake International Creality Sprite Pro Extruder - 3DJake International

Finally, you are ready to try a test print with the new extruder. Once you’ve configured the e-steps and retraction settings, you can simply find a model, slice it with your slicer software, and print it to ensure everything works properly. Next, you’ll need to add spacers to the hot end mount so that it is aligned with the extruder. Remove the two screws holding the hot end to detach it from the printer. Metal single-gear extruder, which is a drop in replacement with no firmware updates needed ( upgrade instructions here) Here, we'll be saying, "Hey, motherboard? Ma'am? Wherever the nozzle stops, that's not it. Move the bed about a centimetre."

54 x 50 x 64.3mm

Make sure you get the Sprite Extruder Pro, its a bit more expensive but its full metal and doesn't have bowden tube inside like the normal Sprite :0 Plug in the SD card and turn the printer on. This will trigger the board firmware update and the firmware will be flashed. It takes around 30 seconds. IdeaMaker Klipper Profile for Ender 3 S1 Upgrading Ender 3 S1 Extruder to Sprite Extruder Pro. It's a drop in upgrade to Ender 3 S1 and CR 10 Smart Pro. I was also curious to see what’s the thermal performance of the Creality Sprite Pro extruder. So I set the hotend temperature to 300C, and waited for 15 minutes before measuring the temperatures with the FLIR Camera installed on the CAT S62 Pro As you can see in the images below, the heat break heatsink reached a temperature of ~41C which is better than I was expecting. It seems that the tiny radial part cooling paired with the airflow over the heatsink gives excellent results. The environmental temperature was ~21C.