Rubie's Official Marvel Avengers Assemble Iron Man Child Gloves,- One Size, Red

Product Information

You'll want to test the MyoWare to be sure it is setup correctly before uploading the new Arduino code. The VBATT pin is unfortunately not switched which means the NeoPixel is always on when the battery is connected; you'll need to disconnect the battery when you turn off the Lilypad MP3 to avoid draining the battery. Or add a switch between the battery and the JST port. Or use a connector to wire the NeoPixel to the LilyPad and disconnect it when not in use. To get around the stk500 sync errors, once it's done compiling (there's a green progress bar in the Arduin IDE) the green progress bar will go away, that's when you turn on your Lilypad MP3. Connect a 3v power supply to the breadboard. This could be the 3v watch battery if you have a holder that can plug in, it could be a 2 cell AA battery holder, which would provide a total of 3v, or it could be a bench power supply set to 3v, to name a few options.

Place one of the electrodes that are connected directly to the MyoWare board in the middle of your forearm muscle with the other electrode placed along the length of the muscle. The second will "wipe" along the ring coloring each LED green and then pulse in brightness a few times before "wiping" the LEDs off. Clean off the models. Use compressed air, blow off the dust from sanding, you could try wiping them down with a damp paper towel, just make sure the prints are fairly clean before painting.

Place an led on the breadboard, the positive lead on one trace and the negative lead on another. A trace is the row of the breadboard that is electrically connected. The positive lead of an LED is the longer leg, the negative lead the shorter one. Using spare wire or alligator clips, connect/hold one end to the Lillypad's GND pin and tap any of the trigger pins. You should hear a different sound clip for each trigger pin. The Lilypad MP3 comes with the Trigger sketch preloaded. This sketch will play a sound from the microSD disc when the associated trigger pin (T1, T2, T3, T4, and T5) are pulled to ground. This is all that's really necessary. If you can't or don't want to put in the extra time, skip the rest of this step. If you want to get a better finish and a cleaner final product however, read on. Print the fingers several times. The print was tuned for the person who designed it, but everyone's hand is a little different. Be prepared to print the pieces several times to tune the sizes to your own hand. I found it really helpful to keep a personal log of the print scalings and how well they fit me. Here is my final scalings:

Figure out how you want to position the Lilypad MP3 between the glove and foam armor upper palm. Cut a slot in the upper palm bottom section to allow the speaker to be slid through. Bend the negative leads around the negative loop. You may want to twist it around several times for a secure hold later, but start by creating a tight "U" shape with the LED lead to hold the copper wire in place. Solder these 4 joints first to hold it in place, then you can either clip off the excess wire or twist it more times and solder. You should leave at least half a centimeter length between the two rings.You might need to repeat this step a few times before you get the scale correct. The armor in this tutorial was increased by 10% and then trimmed one at a time to get the fit to feel correct. Put on the glove and hold the finger armor pieces in their intended place to see if they are too big/small You have to clean up your prints a bit: smoothing out sharp parts, removing supports, cleaning up stringy parts. I went out and did about 6 thin coats at 30-60 minute intervals. This layering allowed the paint to adhere, prevented bubbles, lumps and drips. The strategy is basically to keep doing more coats until you get the color you want. Finally, connect a short length of copper wire to the battery leads. You want just enough to space out the battery from the repulsor, but a short enough length so that the battery remains hidden under the 3D printed pieces. I used more bare copper wire for this part, but in retrospect I would suggest using normal jumper wire.

This is the obvious major step in this build, and you're welcome to stop after this step. Especially if you print the glove in red filament, you could make a similar build for a lot less work, but it won't have as nice a finish or color. It should be fairly self explanatory, but here was my process: Position the speaker between the top and bottom upper palm pieces and cut out a circle in the top piece smaller then the diameter of the speaker. Time to test the NeoPixel ring. To do this, we'll need to upload new test code to the Lilypad MP3's microcontroller.

Size Charts

Decrease the system threshold in the Arduino code - the default threshold is just a suggestion you can increase it to make the system require a stronger flex to trigger or decrease to require a weaker flex. Warning - this could increase false triggering. What I did here was construct a parallel circuit, wiring 4 leds to one 3v watch battery. I would suggest wiring up the 4 leds to the battery on a breadboard before assembling it in 3D. Clean up the print. I started with the main body piece, first removing the supports, brim, and stringy bits, and then going around with a small file cleaning up the corners and rough edges.