Stanley 4 Smooth Plane 2 Inch 1-12-004

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After a sharp edge, the chip breaker is the most important part of the plane and can, if not fitted correctly, lead to some of the problems that you describe. A MODERN CLASSIC: Today’s modernised Sweetheart™ series, updated to meet the latest needs of modern-day craftspeople, boasts a range of premium woodworking tools based on their original 1920s designs, including the iconic “No. 4” Smoothing Bench Plane itself. If you're a woodworker, finding a Sweetheart™ tool is like finding a treasure, and many still consider Sweetheart™ to be the best of the best. If that’s all set ok, I think it’s possible you aren’t applying enough downward pressure on the planing stroke. You need to press down on the front of the plane when starting the stoke, balance the pressure through the stroke and put pressure on the rear of the plane at the end. Some people describe it as trying to plane a hollow in the middle of the board. My time in the Army taught me that raw brass needs to be polished every day or it will start to tarnish and look muddy in a very short time. I thought I'd try an experiment and dip the newly polished brass in shellac to see if it would prevent the brass from oxidizing. I'll report later if it works or not. I only did this to the knob and tote nuts, not the blade adjustment wheel. I figured it was more important for me that the wheel felt right.

No. 4 Bronze Smooth Plane Lie-Nielsen Toolworks No. 4 Bronze Smooth Plane Lie-Nielsen Toolworks

I'd say the old stanleys look better.. but that's it. Put it on the shelf and use the modern one. As you've demonstrated, with an Illes Iron it cuts as good as the best of them.For more information on advanced sharpening we recommend David Charlesworth’s video Plane Sharpening, available in both DVD CLASSIC CHERRY WOOD HANDLES: Made from Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certified cherry wood, the handle and knob are shaped to fit the hand naturally and comfortably, providing comfort in extended or repetitive use. In the end, what really matters is the surface of the wood. I find knots in pine can be difficult to get a nice, smooth surface on, but this plane did a superb job. Today I decided go a bit more in-depth with my rehab of this plane, and work on the cosmetics. The first thing I did was polish up the brass with toothpaste and a gray scratchy on the parts that needed it.

No. 4 Plane Review: Part II - Stanley Made in England - Blogger No. 4 Plane Review: Part II - Stanley Made in England - Blogger

The only other thing I’ve noticed is that the lever cap is set way off centre which just seems wrong to me, but the screw is off centre so are they all like this? I’ve attached some photos to try and explain my point – the lever cap is pretty much touching the side of the plane on one side, but it’s a good 3mm off the other side. How can this be right? Having said that, I wasn’t having any problems at the start so I know it’s something I’m doing. Before writing this blog, I tried to do a little research on when this plane was made. There really isn't a proper type study of Made in England Stanleys like there is with the US versions. The best I could come up with was this link by Time Tested Tools which calls this plane an English type 3, produced from 1945-1972 (Stanley first started making planes in England in 1937). To my eye it looks newer than that, but I'm not an expert. Please comment if you know anything about when English planes were manufactured.The rear totes are different, too. The type 11, however, has a user made tote that may or may not be the same shape as the original. I've been meaning to make my own tote for it, but haven't gotten around to it yet. The English No. 4's tote is comfortable in my hand, so perhaps I'll make a new one similar to this one. As you examine the plane, look for a raised ring that works as a receiver of the knob cast into the bed. In some cases, there is one patent date, and no raised ring, meaning your plane is Type 13, and the dates range from 1925 to 1928. If there is one patent date and a raised ring, the plane type is Type 14, which dates between 1929 and 1930. If there are no patent dates and raised rings, you also have a plane Type 1 to 8. I am so frustrated and haven’t a clue what I’m doing wrong! Bought an old Stanley No. 4 plane from Tooltique and it has been working great on my workbench build (first ever woodworking project). I sharpened the blade a couple of times and it has started skipping/jumping across the wood leaving horizontal lines. It happens both with and against the grain, and doesn’t matter how shallow I set the blade. So I’m thinking it’s either something wrong with my sharpening, or with the way I’m putting it together. I don’t have a honing guide so am sharpening freehand on 240, 600 and 1200 grit sandpaper taped to a flat bathroom tile. I wondered if the angle was too steep so tried to sharpen again really trying for 25 – 30 degrees but it hasn’t made any difference. Should I buy a honing guide and try again? I’d get an Eclipse sharpening guide and see what happens. My bet is sharpening. When learning Paul’s method, it is easy to give a little lift at the end of the stroke that causes the tip of the bevel to be at a steeper angle. You can make this error on the strop, too. The bulk of the bevel will be fine, but then the tip is too steep and there’s no clearance. If you use a protractor, you’ll see a bit of light at the tip.

STANLEY® “No. 4” Sweetheart™ Smoothing Bench Plane

This plane comes with a new and improved Stainless Steel yoke installed in the Frog. The Steel is stronger than Bronze and will be more resistant to wear over time. When you loosen the centre screw, remove it all very gently and look for any minute strands of wood between it and the blade. If you have any, there is work to be done because this fouling will always give a bad cut. Stanley Type 11 Handplanes date from 1910-1918. The APR-19-10 patent date appears with the other patent dates cast behind the frog. There is a new trademark adopted, where “STANLEY” “NEW BRITAIN” “CONN.” “U.S.A.” forms a v-shaped logo.

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Hi Sylvain, no, I adjusted the lever cap screw when I changed the blade. It was under a similar tension as the regular blade. I'm not sure why it was so snug, but I have to say it was really nice. One could get used to that. When using this plane, I would have to say that it works just as well as my type 11. The original blade and chipbreaker were in nearly new condition, so they weren't messed up and I didn't need to replace them. The original blade, however, does tend to need sharpening more frequently than my Ray Iles aftermarket blade. As you measure the depth-adjustment nut, note if it is 1-1/4inch in diameter. That means it has three dates cast into the bed, and the plane is Type 12, dating between 1919 and 1924. If not, that means it is a Type 11 and dates 1910 and 1918. Made from Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certified cherry wood, the handle and knob are shaped to fit the hand naturally and comfortably, providing comfort in extended or repetitive use.