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Games Workshop Citadel Bombe sous-couche - Aérosol Contrast Grey Seer

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Mortarion Grime is a lovely shade of yellowy filth that’s perfect for weathering war machines and dirtying grizzled behemoths. Tyran Blue and Berserker Bloodshade offer new ways to shade reds and blues that are more vivid than our existing hues, while Soulblight Grey is great for shading pale paint schemes. At this stage I’m doing more red highlight as well, doing edge highlights on the red with Wazdakka Red. I also cover the eyes, doing them in a gemstone style using Warpstone Glow shaded with Coelia Greenshade and Nuln Oil and highlight with a spot of Moot Green.

Three coats of Daler Rowney FW Crimson acrylic ink. Each coat brings more vibrance to the red, so do as many as you feel you need. If you want more of the purple tones from the official GW schemes, try using either Process Magenta or Purple Lake as your first layer, or mixing it into the Crimson. Just don’t ask what the Citadel Colour team had to offer the Golden Demon for the arcane knowledge of this unique spray… The Space Wolves, known for their distinctive blue-grey armor, can also benefit from the use of Grey Seer – Spray. By using this primer as a base, the painter can focus on highlighting and shading the armor, rather than worrying about the base color. Paint makes Warhammer, and gorgeous miniatures are a key part of the Warhammer hobby. There’s nothing better than two epic-looking armies facing off on the battlefield, and we all take great enjoyment in sharing our proudest paint jobs on the internet. To help you keep creating incredible armies and jaw-dropping models, Citadel Colour are massively expanding the Contrast range, improving the range of amazing Shade paints, and creating the smoothest and brightest ever white spray – the best just got better.Though if you're actually painting with enamels or oils an enamel primer is fine (I still tend to favour lacquer primers though).

Red Armor Highlights: The armor is highlighted with a mix of Hyek Yellow and Burnt Orange, at least 2:1. Rather that doing continuous smooth edge highlights I did short lines and dots to give it a rougher appearance. The darker splotches were hit with the highlight color on the bottom edges to give them the appearance of a slightly cratered surface. Flesh Tearers Intercessor Credit: Skails Flesh Tearers Intercessor Credit: Skails Dab in some Technical Tesseract Glow on the lenses assuming you can find any available and not snapped up by everyone painting up Necrons. Contrast Wyldwood for the pouches, a dab of Contrast Iyanden Yellow on the Purity Seal, Skulls and weapon housing for a spot of colour. Personally, if I'm just doing a bit of something and don't want to buy a whole pot (like, one off model vs a whole army that needs to be that colour), then I'll mix up what I need and save a swatch of it with a note of which paints were used so if I ever need to reproduce it I can.I think one issue with "enamels" is that (like "primer") it doesn't have a clear and consistent definition. "Acrylic" implies a specific thing; acrylate, but "enamel" can just mean a hard wearing paint (which itself can mean different things) that can be made from different bases. These Shade paints are designed to provide instant depth and easily create stronger shadows, speeding up the process of creating great-looking models. While Contrast paints are designed to tint surfaces and give an intense finish, this new formulation ensures that Shade paints will settle more effectively into the recesses of your miniatures – while leaving the raised parts of your models relatively untouched.

As a professional painter and color theory enthusiast, I can suggest several Citadel Colour paints that pair well with Grey Seer – Spray, providing a harmonious and visually appealing color scheme for miniatures. The Adeptus Mechanicus, known for their intricate machinery and cybernetic soldiers, can benefit from the neutral, grey-toned base provided by Grey Seer – Spray. It can help accentuate the metallic parts and give a cohesive look to the army. Apply another layer of Ultra Matte Varnish to bind the pigment and give the whole model a consistent finish. Grey Seer is just a light neutral grey, so if you're not hell bent on a perfect match then any light neutral grey should probably do the job. I think most of the other citadel light greys aren't neutral. Administratum Grey perhaps, but that's a bit darker.Some might say 12" away, some might say 8 or 10" away. Some might say shake for 2 mins, some might say shake for 5 mins. Assuming 2 or 3 different brands of rattle can paint will have similar application is asking for bad results. You could try the ones I mentioned, Vallejo White Grey or Neutral Grey, but he former would need to be darkened slightly if you want a match for Grey Seer and the latter may need to be lightened, I'm not sure on the VMC Neutral Grey, if you want I can dig through my hobby bin and find my VMC Neutral Grey and see what it's like next to Grey Seer. Gloss varnish the whole thing. We’re going to work on this at the same time as the reds for a moment, so we’re doing steps 6-9 to apply decals and a pinwash. With some kitchen towel laid out, give your brush some test blasts with your airbrush. Vary the distance between the brush and the towel and your airbrush and the brush until you find a level of spatter that works for you. You don’t want to head straight into doing this on your model or you risk wiping out a lot of your work. White Scar is designed specifically for use with Contrast paints, to sit alongside the cool Grey Seer and the warmer Wraithbone sprays. There’s nothing stopping you from using it with our regular Citadel range, however. It’s great for creating punchier colours from a brighter undercoat – you can even try using our reformulated Shades on it for bold new results.

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