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Sunrace 8-Speed Freewheel

£9.9£99Clearance
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Campagnolo's first attempt at indexed shifting, "Synchro" was designed to work with older Campagnolo derailers, but the cable travel was too short and cable tension too high for reliable indexing. In the early 1990s, Campagnolo abandoned the Synchro system and redesigned everything around a longer cable travel. I don't know the exact year of this change, but I believe it happened at the same time as the move from 7-speed to 8-speed. Very early Freehubs (sometimes identifiable by the absence of the typical bulge on the right end of the hub barrel) which have non-interchangeable bodies. The Freehub body of these hubs is held on only by the axle bearings, and will slip off once the axle is removed. working on freewheel bodies is generally not worth the trouble. The freewheel gets the least wear of any bearing on a bicycle, since it only turns when it is not carrying a load. Campagnolo made a very slight change in indexing in 2001. Supposedly, you need to use 2001 or later shifters with 2001 or later rear derailers, but the difference is so small that it doesn't matter in practice.

SRAM "ESP" or "Exact Actuation" derailers and shifters (generally designated by a decimal model number: 7.0, 8.0, 9.0 etc) can only be used if the shifter and rear derailer are both ESP. A Jtek ShiftMate pulley adaptor can make a SRAM shifter work with a Shimano derailer, or vice versa. All SRAM 10-speed derailers and shifters are of yet a third type. Dura-Ace 7800 and 7801 10-speed hubs (and Ultegra wheelsets) with the aluminum Freehub body and tall splines accept only Dura-Ace, Ultegra and 105 10-speed cassettes. The same procedure works for off-brand Freehubs that have a LH threaded fastener accessed from the LH side of the hub, too. It doesn't work with freehub bodies that screw directly into the hub shell. First scrape off as much grit and grime as you can, then flush the old lubricant out of the freewheel before relubricating it, To do this, you will need a parts cleaning bath, preferably with a sprayer. Loosening the outer ring by a couple of turns can create a larger gap into which to spray the cleaning solution. Campagnolo/Shimano 8-speed cassettes have different spacing , so you can't generally get good indexing using a Campagnolo 8-speed wheel with a Shimano shift system or vice versa.For example, Shimano doesn't make any true "corncob" (one-tooth-jump) cassettes for time-trialists or flatland riders. In 7 speed, the closest is the J (13/14/15/16/17/19/21). working on freewheel bodies is generally not worth the trouble. The freewheel bearing gets the least wear of any on a bicycle, since it only turns when it is not carrying any load. Some people will ignore my advice and try to service freewheels (or have no choice). The right side of the outer freewheel body looks like this when all cleaned up. A bearing race is visible. Freewheels screw onto the hub without any tools, then, as you ride the bike, your pedaling effort tightens them down.

Freewheel bodies have a larger diameter than the spoking flange of many hubs. Warning: loosen a freewheel before cutting the spokes to replace the rim, otherwise you may not be able to loosen the freewheel or to replace the spokes on the right side of the wheel. The barrel (between the flanges) of many hubs will break if you respoke only the left side and then try to unscrew the freewheel. These chainrings have the teeth slightly farther to the right than the older chainrings to work a little better with the narrower chains. There is no difference whatever in the crank spiders. Except with 11 speeds, cog spacing is different enough from Shimano's that Shimano derailers and shifters may not work well with Campagnolo cassettes, and vice versa. It is possible to fudge compatibility in some cases where cog-to-cog spacing is similar. Shown here is an aluminum body that has suffered this sort of damage. Someone has filed down the burrs to make it re-usable after a fashion.

Chainrings/Cranks

But also, most Uniglide Freehubs can be updated by installing a Hyperglide ratchet body. This is an easy and inexpensive modification (see below.) For perfect matching, you might substitute different spacers, use alternate cable routing, or use a Jtek ShiftMate pulley adaptor. Long-cage (SGS) derailers have greater takeup capacity, and work with all types of cassettes. Long-cage derailers are commonly called "mountain" derailers currently, though in the past, this style of derailer was known as a "touring" derailer. (The marketeers retired the use of "touring" as a buzzword in the late '80s when mountain bikes became the hot item.) "Road" vs "Mountain" Front Derailers Mountain" hubs will likely be slightly better sealed against dirt and mud than "road" hubs, but this is rarely an issue in practice. The wider 135 mm spacing will generally result in a slightly stronger wheel due to reduced dishing of the spokes. Leave the freewheel in place on the wheel, or screw it onto a wheel, so that you will have something to hold it with. Breaking the freewheel loose from the wheel now with a freewheel remover reduces the likelihood of damage to the inner body if you have to remove it for reassembly. (If you don't have the right freewheel remover, or the remover splines on the freewheel are munged up, it is useful last resort to grab the inner body in a vise to remove it, after disassembling the freewheel.)

Sheldon's advice makes very good sense for Shimano Freehub bodies, because they are common, and easily replaced. But these days, more surviving freewheels are cherished antiques. Rebuilding them doesn't deserve to be a lost art. Here is how to rebuild one. I (John Allen) especially like old SunTour freewheels, and I use them as examples in this article. Freewheels of other brands are basically the same, but differ in detail. In reality, the fancier parts aren't always the most suitable, in the same way that a Ferrari, while it is a great racecar, isn't at all as good for daily transportation as a Toyota -- there are practical issues of cost, reliability, serviceability and durability. With bicycle components, the performance gain with higher-end models is often minuscule. Remember, you account for 80 percent of the weight even if you are riding a rather heavy bicycle!

Hold the bicycle with the rear wheel off the ground, and leaning to the left at about a 45 degree angle. An assistant may be helpful for this. Turn the pedals around a couple of times to get the wheel spinning fast, then let it coast (helps to be in high gear for this.) Shimano Freehubs dating from the mid 1980s onward have replaceable bodies, held onto the hub shell by screw threads and, usually, splines. This is explained above in the transplant section of this article.

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