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Faithfull FAIRCUT HarDWood Cutting Gauge, 6.5 cm*12.7 cm*12.5 cm

£9.9£99Clearance
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Also in step 1 you use a spoke shave to round the top. Someone less skilled may find it easier to use a file to shape the top. It will give more control. (You may like the result better yourself.) bottom edges. The 2 photos below show that the gauge with ALL Phillips screws has a more pronounced curvature to the Top and Bottom of the Head and was thinner at 2.1/16″ The fence of a cutting gauge is used to hold a measurement. It can be moved along the gauge’s stem and secured in place using the thumb screw.

The Mortice Gauge #2120 [above 3 photos] and below, seems to be the bog standard for Mortice gauges as it lasted for eons [ c.1861-c1965<]. It had everything……Rosewood; ‘Fancy’ Head; plated Head; Thumbscrew operation; and was a ‘Combination’ gauge. I have noted that the earlier ones had the ‘fancier’ brass inserts [more delicate with smaller screws… photo below here] But the gauge offers much more than a good fit. The pin is always in the most visible position and the trailing of the pin when marking means that the gauge faces the very least resistance.They also often use a wooden wedge to hold the stem in place (although thumb screws are also common). These are adjusted by light taps of a mallet, which can take a while to master. This Cutting Gauge below may be a modified #2066 Patternmakers’ Marking Gauge, since I can find no reference to this Gauge.

All three are necessary if you cut joinery by hand, particularly the mortise-and-tenon. However, if you use a powered apprentice to cut mortises and tenons, then the marking and mortise gauges won’t get much use. The cutting gauge, however, is an indispensable tool for furniture making regardless of which tools you use to cut joinery. It’s perfect for marking dovetail and tenon shoulders, and can be used to sever fibers and minimize tearout before making a crossgrain cut with a tablesaw or router. Absolutely! Although marking gauges are inexpensive to buy, making your own tools is a great way to gain a deeper understanding of your craft. You can now mark out where to drill the hole for the pencil in the end of the beam. Unless the size of your pencil is very different from mine this should be 19mm in from the end. Make sure you measure your pencil with a Vernier first to establish the correct size for the hole, it should be the same size as your pencil. For a clean hole I would use a lipped and spur tipped drill bit to drill this hole with a pillar drill. Gauge # 2052B. below is c.1928 and has a Polished Half Round unplated Boxwood Head and Stem with a Boxwood Thumbscrew. [Unfortunately the latter was not restorable to its’ original colour] Your support will help me to deliver the best William Marples information on the entire internet. Thank you.

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Gauge #2092. Rosewood with Boxwood Thumbscrew, Brass Hooped. Was available as #640 in 1888 Cat. and in 1909[#2092] but was not listed in 1921 [dropped in WW1?] but again is listed in 1928, but no further. By using a knife it can also cut through thin veneers. It is important that the knife tip is kept sharp to make an accurate marking. A marking gauge can technically be used for mortises by changing the measurements, but it’s best to use a mortise gauge or combination gauge. In a pinch, you can even use two separate marking gauges for each side of the mortise. Mortice Gauge #2120E [below] was made of Ebony and had a plated head. It was originally introduced around 1897 as item #655, became item #2130 in the 1909 Cat. then #2120E in 1928-c.1938. Still, a wheel gauge is a great choice for those looking for a more modern take on marking gauges. What’s so special about Japanese marking gauges?

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